| Constructing Sleeves & Skirts |
Sleeve Construction :
When I began construction on the sleeves of this costume it became painfully obvious that an entire section would have
to be dedicated to the construction of the sleeves. What a royal pain in the ... Perhaps with what I found out and what I
have to say- maybe it will make it a little easier for you. The sleeves are half the battle of this costume.
80( That's me with crossed eyes passing out with fatigue.
Step 1: Create Sleeve Cap Pattern & Piece (see previous page)
Step 2: Create Upper Sleeve Slant Angle On Pattern Piece, Apply Design.
-I cut out the Upper Sleeve, just as is, from the company, and then figured out how I wanted the slant to look. I realized
that I wanted the inner edge (towards body) to be higher, and the outer edge (away from body) to be lower. Following
the pictures of the original. This is my interpretation of that angle (pic 1). My upper sleeve piece cut from my fabric, with
design in place. See how it resembles a "v" shape.
This is how I did it; there might be a better way. Go with what you know as best.
-Apply design as detailed in previous pages.
Step 3: Create Lower Sleeve Pattern; Create Overlap
-Using the muslin for practice, I laid the upper sleeve piece over some yardage, and decided I wanted to have the lower
sleeve drop about 14-15 inches from the bottom of the upper sleeve. I measured (see pic 2) 14 inches from the center
point and pinned, then I made a curve by marking in 1/2-inch increments towards the upper sleeve. I pinned at 13 1/2",
13", 12 1/2", 12...and then cut out the piece in a curve (pic 3). You might want to pin it, or mark it, then use something
to create a more even curve like connecting the markings with pencil, etc. I just freehanded it with the scissors. Notice
how it echoes the "v" shape slightly of the top sleeve angle.
-To create the overlap, I knew I had to have one side of the pattern longer than the other, and the easiest way I knew to
accomplish this was to cut the fabric slightly off center in relation to the upper piece it would be attached to (see pic 4).
If you cut out the top edge with the upper sleeve in the center (the way it is laying in pic 3) you will get a tiny overlap or
none at all. To get a decent overlap, move the pattern piece to the side and cut it there (pic 4). This way, your lower
sleeve is made to fit the upper sleeve, because you've used the upper sleeve as a template for it. Made to fit.
This is how I did it; there might be a better way. Go with what you know as best.
-This is your lower sleeve pattern (pic 5). Piece is meant to be cut on grain NOT on fold. Cut 2 of fabric. When I cut out
my fabric, I left even MORE on the edges for an even greater overlap (pic 6). You might want to adjust the pattern
piece, or allow for more room when cutting like I did.
Step 4: Create Inner Sleeve Pattern Piece
-To create the inner sleeve, first I decided I wanted it to be really straight, not bell shaped at all. That's what I see in the
original. I pulled out the original pattern piece for the upper sleeve, and just cut the angle from that at the top, to match.
Then I just cut straight down the sides. This is your pattern piece for the inner sleeves (pic 7). I left too much on the
sides, didn't cut it close enough to the upper sleeve width and so I had gathers a bit when attaching the inner sleeve,
so make sure you make the inner sleeve about the same width as the outer edge of the upper sleeve.
Step 5: Attach Sleeve Cap to Arm Hole with pins.
-Don't stitch it in place yet, because if you do it will leave an additional seam and it will look odd, if you need to: do a
long baste stitch that can be easily removed later. (see previous page's pics for this).
Step 6: Stitch Underarm Seam Of Upper Sleeve & Ease Stitch Top Of Upper Sleeve
-Follow the pattern company directions for ease stitching the sleeve top for the armhole (pic 8).
Step 7: Finish Edges Of Overlap And Bottom Edge Of Lower Sleeve
-I just turned over the edges, twice, and did an edge finishing stitch (pic 8).
Step 8: Turn Upper Sleeve Inside-Out, First Attach Lower Sleeve To Upper Sleeve, Creating Overlap. Turn Inner
Sleeve Inside-Out, Slip Inner Sleeve OVER Outer Sleeve, And Attach To Upper Sleeve Making Sure Seam Will Be
Hidden (Towards Back) Then Stitch All Three Layers Together.
-(Pic 9). Check the overlap on the lower sleeve before you stitch, because if it ends up in the wrong place you'll be
really mad..trust me =0).. Layers are as follows: Upper Sleeve, Lower Sleeve, and Inner Sleeve. Make sure the seam
on the inner sleeve is towards the back not right at the opening of the overlap in front.
-It's possible that one sleeve will have the beginning of the lower sleeve overlap at one point on the upper sleeve, and
the other sleeve will begin at another point. This was the case when I made mine, when I tried to pin them on at the
same starting point, one of the overlaps kept ending up in the rear. Finally I just had to move it until the overlap was in
the front (Pics 10-11 where I'm pointing at).
-Just make sure you stand back and check that both of the overlaps are in the same general area up front when you're
done pinning BEFORE you stitch, and check that the overlaps are not going in the same direction. What I mean is, on
the left arm the overlap is on top heading towards your body, on the right arm the overlap is on top heading towards
your body..one is heading left and one is heading right. Why do I feel like I'm not making sense? LOL.
Step 9: Attach Sleeve To Armhole.
-(Pics 12-13) It is hard to get the top of the sleeve into the arm hole with the sleeve cap in place. It took me a while to
figure out the best way to tackle this was to stick my arm up the inside of the sleeves and grab and pin blindly from the
inside. Just make sure when you're done pinning, BEFORE you stitch it in place that none of the raw edges are sticking
out anywhere, and that you've got the right amount of sleeve cap exposed not too much otherwise you'll make a
different style look- not too little otherwise you won't even notice it's there.
Step 10: Finish Inner Sleeve Hem.
-I just turned once and did an edge finishing stitch.
Step 11: Be Glad, You're Done. =0)
When I began construction on the sleeves of this costume it became painfully obvious that an entire section would have
to be dedicated to the construction of the sleeves. What a royal pain in the ... Perhaps with what I found out and what I
have to say- maybe it will make it a little easier for you. The sleeves are half the battle of this costume.
80( That's me with crossed eyes passing out with fatigue.
Step 1: Create Sleeve Cap Pattern & Piece (see previous page)
Step 2: Create Upper Sleeve Slant Angle On Pattern Piece, Apply Design.
-I cut out the Upper Sleeve, just as is, from the company, and then figured out how I wanted the slant to look. I realized
that I wanted the inner edge (towards body) to be higher, and the outer edge (away from body) to be lower. Following
the pictures of the original. This is my interpretation of that angle (pic 1). My upper sleeve piece cut from my fabric, with
design in place. See how it resembles a "v" shape.
This is how I did it; there might be a better way. Go with what you know as best.
-Apply design as detailed in previous pages.
Step 3: Create Lower Sleeve Pattern; Create Overlap
-Using the muslin for practice, I laid the upper sleeve piece over some yardage, and decided I wanted to have the lower
sleeve drop about 14-15 inches from the bottom of the upper sleeve. I measured (see pic 2) 14 inches from the center
point and pinned, then I made a curve by marking in 1/2-inch increments towards the upper sleeve. I pinned at 13 1/2",
13", 12 1/2", 12...and then cut out the piece in a curve (pic 3). You might want to pin it, or mark it, then use something
to create a more even curve like connecting the markings with pencil, etc. I just freehanded it with the scissors. Notice
how it echoes the "v" shape slightly of the top sleeve angle.
-To create the overlap, I knew I had to have one side of the pattern longer than the other, and the easiest way I knew to
accomplish this was to cut the fabric slightly off center in relation to the upper piece it would be attached to (see pic 4).
If you cut out the top edge with the upper sleeve in the center (the way it is laying in pic 3) you will get a tiny overlap or
none at all. To get a decent overlap, move the pattern piece to the side and cut it there (pic 4). This way, your lower
sleeve is made to fit the upper sleeve, because you've used the upper sleeve as a template for it. Made to fit.
This is how I did it; there might be a better way. Go with what you know as best.
-This is your lower sleeve pattern (pic 5). Piece is meant to be cut on grain NOT on fold. Cut 2 of fabric. When I cut out
my fabric, I left even MORE on the edges for an even greater overlap (pic 6). You might want to adjust the pattern
piece, or allow for more room when cutting like I did.
Step 4: Create Inner Sleeve Pattern Piece
-To create the inner sleeve, first I decided I wanted it to be really straight, not bell shaped at all. That's what I see in the
original. I pulled out the original pattern piece for the upper sleeve, and just cut the angle from that at the top, to match.
Then I just cut straight down the sides. This is your pattern piece for the inner sleeves (pic 7). I left too much on the
sides, didn't cut it close enough to the upper sleeve width and so I had gathers a bit when attaching the inner sleeve,
so make sure you make the inner sleeve about the same width as the outer edge of the upper sleeve.
Step 5: Attach Sleeve Cap to Arm Hole with pins.
-Don't stitch it in place yet, because if you do it will leave an additional seam and it will look odd, if you need to: do a
long baste stitch that can be easily removed later. (see previous page's pics for this).
Step 6: Stitch Underarm Seam Of Upper Sleeve & Ease Stitch Top Of Upper Sleeve
-Follow the pattern company directions for ease stitching the sleeve top for the armhole (pic 8).
Step 7: Finish Edges Of Overlap And Bottom Edge Of Lower Sleeve
-I just turned over the edges, twice, and did an edge finishing stitch (pic 8).
Step 8: Turn Upper Sleeve Inside-Out, First Attach Lower Sleeve To Upper Sleeve, Creating Overlap. Turn Inner
Sleeve Inside-Out, Slip Inner Sleeve OVER Outer Sleeve, And Attach To Upper Sleeve Making Sure Seam Will Be
Hidden (Towards Back) Then Stitch All Three Layers Together.
-(Pic 9). Check the overlap on the lower sleeve before you stitch, because if it ends up in the wrong place you'll be
really mad..trust me =0).. Layers are as follows: Upper Sleeve, Lower Sleeve, and Inner Sleeve. Make sure the seam
on the inner sleeve is towards the back not right at the opening of the overlap in front.
-It's possible that one sleeve will have the beginning of the lower sleeve overlap at one point on the upper sleeve, and
the other sleeve will begin at another point. This was the case when I made mine, when I tried to pin them on at the
same starting point, one of the overlaps kept ending up in the rear. Finally I just had to move it until the overlap was in
the front (Pics 10-11 where I'm pointing at).
-Just make sure you stand back and check that both of the overlaps are in the same general area up front when you're
done pinning BEFORE you stitch, and check that the overlaps are not going in the same direction. What I mean is, on
the left arm the overlap is on top heading towards your body, on the right arm the overlap is on top heading towards
your body..one is heading left and one is heading right. Why do I feel like I'm not making sense? LOL.
Step 9: Attach Sleeve To Armhole.
-(Pics 12-13) It is hard to get the top of the sleeve into the arm hole with the sleeve cap in place. It took me a while to
figure out the best way to tackle this was to stick my arm up the inside of the sleeves and grab and pin blindly from the
inside. Just make sure when you're done pinning, BEFORE you stitch it in place that none of the raw edges are sticking
out anywhere, and that you've got the right amount of sleeve cap exposed not too much otherwise you'll make a
different style look- not too little otherwise you won't even notice it's there.
Step 10: Finish Inner Sleeve Hem.
-I just turned once and did an edge finishing stitch.
Step 11: Be Glad, You're Done. =0)
Skirt Construction :
Step 1: Find A Pattern For Outer Skirt Layer & Inner Skirts.
-Here's what I did: I went digging through my patterns I have on hand. I went looking for a skirt pattern that stops at
about waist level that I could modify. I was going to use the Simplicity 9891 at first, but then realized the perfect choice
was Simplicity 9517 (see pic of pattern on 1st page with other patterns used). The pattern I used on the under dress for
the Angel Dress! That pattern has an empire style waist, so it was perfect to modify! I pulled out the old skirt front and
back pattern pieces, and ironed them with the warm dry iron to smooth them.
-I laid out the dress front pattern piece on the cutting table and then laid the skirt front pattern piece that came with
Simplicity 9699 with the petal shape over the skirt front pattern piece of Simplicity 9517. I lined up the tops of each
pattern (pic 1). I then cut the curve on the skirt front bottom by following the shape on the pattern piece (pic 2). I
removed the pattern from on top, and pulled out my bodice pieces that were made for the costume. I taped together the
front bodice pattern pieces again (they were in two pieces from being cut apart for the princess seams)and laid them
on the top of the waist line on the front skirt pattern piece and cut the waist to match the bodice (pic 3).
-I then pulled out the skirt back pattern piece and laid it out on the cutting table. I did not want to create the petal shape
in the back, it isn't there in my opinion by looking at the drawings of the original, and it is straight in back. But you can
always add the petal shape in back too if you want it there! I left the pattern piece basically alone on the bottom, and
then pulled out my bodice back pattern piece that I had made, and taped it back together. I placed it at the waist and
cut the waist of the skirt to match the bodice back.
-There are your skirt patterns for both outer and inner skirts.
Step 2: Cut 8 Pieces Of Fabric For Skirts (4 Of Outer Material, 4 Of Inner Material)
-I cut out the pieces of fabric (pic 4).
Step 3: Pin & Stitch Together Inner Skirts & Outer Skirts On Side Seams Leaving About 14" Or More Open On Bottom
For Vents. Turn Over Edges On Vents & Edge Stitch To Finish.
-What I did was pin the side seams together on both inner and outer skirts at first. I stitched a 5/8" seam until about 14"
from the bottom on the sides. I left the bottom open in a vent on both sides because that is what I see in the drawings.
You don't have to do this if you want it closed, keep on till you reach the bottom. Then I turned the vent edges over and
edge finished them to keep them from fraying.
Step 4: Pin & Stitch Front At Seam. Pin & Stitch Back At Seam. Leaving At Least 2 Feet From The Bottom Open On
Skirt Back For Large Vent. Only Stitch About 14" Down From Waist On Front Leaving The Rest Of The Overlap Open.
-Pretty self explanatory there, There is a large vent in the back on the original. The Front does close to about hip level,
after that it is open. Don't hem vent in front now, wait on that, but you can turn edge on vent in back and edge finish
that.
Step 5: Slip Outer Skirt Over Dress Form (If You're Using One)With Piece Turned Inside Out And Pin, Spreading Ease
Evenly Over Entire Waist Seam (see pics 5-6).
-Pretty self explanatory there too. It's pretty easy to pin this together with a dress form. Maybe if you do not own one
you could get some nice person to be your dummy..LOL..just don't tell them they are your dummy. =0P
Step 6: Turn Inner Skirt Inside Out And Slip Inner Skirt Over Outer Skirt And Fix To Bodice With Existing Pins, Adding
More If Necessary, Spreading Ease Evenly Over Entire Waist Seam (pics 7-8).
-Ditto above. Step back; try it on after you've pinned to make sure it fits so far, etc. This is the point where adjustments
are possible.
Step 7: Stitch All Layers Together At Waist Seam.
-Don't catch the back sashes in your stitching or pinning process; make sure they are out of the way.
Step 8: Pin Up Hem And Allow To Hang Overnight.
Step 9: Stitch & Finish Hem.
-Sounds easier than it is. Especially the front skirt curved hem. The pattern directions for Simplicity 9699 should have
directions on sewing a curved hem since the skirt comes that way. It is challenging, if you've never done one. If it does
not (I didn't read the directions at all, I was winging it) you can do like I did. I consulted my trusty "Complete Photo Guide
To Sewing" book that I cannot live without. It told me to sew in a long loose stitch first, and go in with let's say a seam
ripper type tool, and grab the bobbin threads about every 2-3 inches and pull up a little bit lightly. This creates the
effect of spreading the fullness across the entire curve. The bobbin threads are the threads on the inside not the
outside of the garment you're sewing on..but you probably already knew that! ;o)
It warned me not to pull too much on the threads otherwise when you sew the hem it will pull against itself. What I did
was loosen my thread tension dial, and set my machine for the longest stitch. I followed the curve about 1 inch in from
the edge with that hem already pressed up with a steam iron. Then I tugged on some threads, all the way across. Then
I pressed. Then I did the hem, and then pressed again and it is really nice and curved and flat. The back of the skirts
are easy. Especially if you've made them straight instead of curved like I did.
Step 1: Find A Pattern For Outer Skirt Layer & Inner Skirts.
-Here's what I did: I went digging through my patterns I have on hand. I went looking for a skirt pattern that stops at
about waist level that I could modify. I was going to use the Simplicity 9891 at first, but then realized the perfect choice
was Simplicity 9517 (see pic of pattern on 1st page with other patterns used). The pattern I used on the under dress for
the Angel Dress! That pattern has an empire style waist, so it was perfect to modify! I pulled out the old skirt front and
back pattern pieces, and ironed them with the warm dry iron to smooth them.
-I laid out the dress front pattern piece on the cutting table and then laid the skirt front pattern piece that came with
Simplicity 9699 with the petal shape over the skirt front pattern piece of Simplicity 9517. I lined up the tops of each
pattern (pic 1). I then cut the curve on the skirt front bottom by following the shape on the pattern piece (pic 2). I
removed the pattern from on top, and pulled out my bodice pieces that were made for the costume. I taped together the
front bodice pattern pieces again (they were in two pieces from being cut apart for the princess seams)and laid them
on the top of the waist line on the front skirt pattern piece and cut the waist to match the bodice (pic 3).
-I then pulled out the skirt back pattern piece and laid it out on the cutting table. I did not want to create the petal shape
in the back, it isn't there in my opinion by looking at the drawings of the original, and it is straight in back. But you can
always add the petal shape in back too if you want it there! I left the pattern piece basically alone on the bottom, and
then pulled out my bodice back pattern piece that I had made, and taped it back together. I placed it at the waist and
cut the waist of the skirt to match the bodice back.
-There are your skirt patterns for both outer and inner skirts.
Step 2: Cut 8 Pieces Of Fabric For Skirts (4 Of Outer Material, 4 Of Inner Material)
-I cut out the pieces of fabric (pic 4).
Step 3: Pin & Stitch Together Inner Skirts & Outer Skirts On Side Seams Leaving About 14" Or More Open On Bottom
For Vents. Turn Over Edges On Vents & Edge Stitch To Finish.
-What I did was pin the side seams together on both inner and outer skirts at first. I stitched a 5/8" seam until about 14"
from the bottom on the sides. I left the bottom open in a vent on both sides because that is what I see in the drawings.
You don't have to do this if you want it closed, keep on till you reach the bottom. Then I turned the vent edges over and
edge finished them to keep them from fraying.
Step 4: Pin & Stitch Front At Seam. Pin & Stitch Back At Seam. Leaving At Least 2 Feet From The Bottom Open On
Skirt Back For Large Vent. Only Stitch About 14" Down From Waist On Front Leaving The Rest Of The Overlap Open.
-Pretty self explanatory there, There is a large vent in the back on the original. The Front does close to about hip level,
after that it is open. Don't hem vent in front now, wait on that, but you can turn edge on vent in back and edge finish
that.
Step 5: Slip Outer Skirt Over Dress Form (If You're Using One)With Piece Turned Inside Out And Pin, Spreading Ease
Evenly Over Entire Waist Seam (see pics 5-6).
-Pretty self explanatory there too. It's pretty easy to pin this together with a dress form. Maybe if you do not own one
you could get some nice person to be your dummy..LOL..just don't tell them they are your dummy. =0P
Step 6: Turn Inner Skirt Inside Out And Slip Inner Skirt Over Outer Skirt And Fix To Bodice With Existing Pins, Adding
More If Necessary, Spreading Ease Evenly Over Entire Waist Seam (pics 7-8).
-Ditto above. Step back; try it on after you've pinned to make sure it fits so far, etc. This is the point where adjustments
are possible.
Step 7: Stitch All Layers Together At Waist Seam.
-Don't catch the back sashes in your stitching or pinning process; make sure they are out of the way.
Step 8: Pin Up Hem And Allow To Hang Overnight.
Step 9: Stitch & Finish Hem.
-Sounds easier than it is. Especially the front skirt curved hem. The pattern directions for Simplicity 9699 should have
directions on sewing a curved hem since the skirt comes that way. It is challenging, if you've never done one. If it does
not (I didn't read the directions at all, I was winging it) you can do like I did. I consulted my trusty "Complete Photo Guide
To Sewing" book that I cannot live without. It told me to sew in a long loose stitch first, and go in with let's say a seam
ripper type tool, and grab the bobbin threads about every 2-3 inches and pull up a little bit lightly. This creates the
effect of spreading the fullness across the entire curve. The bobbin threads are the threads on the inside not the
outside of the garment you're sewing on..but you probably already knew that! ;o)
It warned me not to pull too much on the threads otherwise when you sew the hem it will pull against itself. What I did
was loosen my thread tension dial, and set my machine for the longest stitch. I followed the curve about 1 inch in from
the edge with that hem already pressed up with a steam iron. Then I tugged on some threads, all the way across. Then
I pressed. Then I did the hem, and then pressed again and it is really nice and curved and flat. The back of the skirts
are easy. Especially if you've made them straight instead of curved like I did.
The Finished Costume!
-Total Spent For Costume Including Muslin & Mistakes Made: $137.00 USD.
-Total Time Spent Making Costume & Doing Research:
2 months research, two weeks to make it. This includes all time spent studying, reading, making mock up's, etc.
-The only thing I had left to do when the pictures above were taken was to fix any problems found.
-The bodice on my costume is not lined. It is comfortable, but you might want to consider lining it when making the
bodice for more comfort in cooler weather.
-Total Spent For Costume Including Muslin & Mistakes Made: $137.00 USD.
-Total Time Spent Making Costume & Doing Research:
2 months research, two weeks to make it. This includes all time spent studying, reading, making mock up's, etc.
-The only thing I had left to do when the pictures above were taken was to fix any problems found.
-The bodice on my costume is not lined. It is comfortable, but you might want to consider lining it when making the
bodice for more comfort in cooler weather.