Sleeve Design, Collar Details, Belt Buckle
Sleeve Details
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors Storm Grey,
Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of the Chase Dress Sleeve Top Design.
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of Sleeve Top Design in 11X14 size (or closest
size available-8x10 is too small) made at Kinko's.
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine were made by "Vis-A-Vis" company and I bought mine at Staples
office supply store)
OR: Free-hand design.
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the sleeves, I knew I had a several options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to embroider. The original in the film has an
embroidered pattern in a tone-on-tone color. I really did not want to learn to embroider right now. Not because
I do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you do know how to embroider (you're totally awesome)
you can trace the pattern onto your fabric and then sew away! I could use my machine if I learned how to do a
technique called "Free Motion Embroidery". If you want to learn how to do this with your machine, check with
your local fabric store. Most of the time your fabric store will have seminars and classes you can pay for to
learn new techniques. Ask your store if they teach Free Motion Embroidery or Embroidery classes.
If you're looking for books on the subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or local retail shop, and
look up these book titles:
-The Encyclopedia of Embroidery
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: Basic Techniques
-The Machine Embroidery Handbook: Designing with Stitching, Manipulation & Color
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: How to Stabilize, Hoop and Stitch Decorative Designs
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them enlarge it for me, so that it was the right size to
cover my upper arm. Then I had them make me a clear transparency of it. I had two made. You will need one
for your left side, and one for your right side, because only one side of the transparency is the "good" side and
the other side cannot be used because if you try to follow the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and
be destroyed. At first, I thought I could just buy one and flip it over to the left and right, but I soon found out
when the pattern began to disappear that this would not work. I had some trouble explaining to the people at
Kinko's what I needed, or I should say they were quite confused by my request for a "left" and a "right"..so
good luck! =0) Both of the "swirls" if you could call them that head towards the front of your body, so on your
left shoulder the main circle is facing forward, and the right shoulder the main circle is facing forward. It is
easier to show than to type.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use this method, and
trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to prevent the
bottles from doing that ?splat!? thing they do..where you?re going along just fine, and then the bottle,
well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0( See pics on previous page for this.
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge hassle. This
costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the surface I was
working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I placed my pattern piece on top
of the cardboard (pic 1), and pinned the edges down, don?t stretch out the fabric too much other wise when
you remove the piece the pattern will be distorted. I placed the sheets of wax free tracing paper over the
pattern piece (pic 2). Then I placed the clear transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 3) and used
some tape to keep it in place on the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that when
you paint over the white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show through the
paint, even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of fabric. You
should use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of where you have already been
on the pattern if you do not want to get confused (pic 4). Trust me on this one; you will get confused because it
is so intricate. The water erase markers DO leave a color stain remnant on the transparencies; most of it does
come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the white coming
through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the design. I lifted off the layers and
kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint with the textile medium. You can skip that part if you
are using fabric paint already, or sewing the design on. I painted light gray over the tracing (pic 6). Once I
covered the piece, I let it dry before moving it. I let the whole thing dry for 7 days, and then I used the steam
iron to do the heat setting. Follow the directions on your choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and
permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to re-create the pattern by free-hand style.
If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after practicing several times. Even with
using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical. However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see how it behaves
when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final pattern piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) ask them to enlarge your
pattern just bit. When I had my transparency made, I showed them the original I had printed with my computer,
and then asked them to make it a bit larger. DON'T believe them if they tell you that they do not carry an
11X14(or similar large size) on the transparency, THEY DO..they just do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, one for the left shoulder and one for the right shoulder, and then when you get
home mark the "good" usable side with a permanent marker. (i.e. "left shoulder"/"right shoulder") This way you
will not forget what side is the good side by the time you get around to using the patterns, and you will not get
confused about which way the pattern goes on.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $6.00 USD ($2.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $17.94 USD
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors Storm Grey,
Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of the Chase Dress Sleeve Top Design.
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of Sleeve Top Design in 11X14 size (or closest
size available-8x10 is too small) made at Kinko's.
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine were made by "Vis-A-Vis" company and I bought mine at Staples
office supply store)
OR: Free-hand design.
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the sleeves, I knew I had a several options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to embroider. The original in the film has an
embroidered pattern in a tone-on-tone color. I really did not want to learn to embroider right now. Not because
I do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you do know how to embroider (you're totally awesome)
you can trace the pattern onto your fabric and then sew away! I could use my machine if I learned how to do a
technique called "Free Motion Embroidery". If you want to learn how to do this with your machine, check with
your local fabric store. Most of the time your fabric store will have seminars and classes you can pay for to
learn new techniques. Ask your store if they teach Free Motion Embroidery or Embroidery classes.
If you're looking for books on the subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or local retail shop, and
look up these book titles:
-The Encyclopedia of Embroidery
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: Basic Techniques
-The Machine Embroidery Handbook: Designing with Stitching, Manipulation & Color
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: How to Stabilize, Hoop and Stitch Decorative Designs
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them enlarge it for me, so that it was the right size to
cover my upper arm. Then I had them make me a clear transparency of it. I had two made. You will need one
for your left side, and one for your right side, because only one side of the transparency is the "good" side and
the other side cannot be used because if you try to follow the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and
be destroyed. At first, I thought I could just buy one and flip it over to the left and right, but I soon found out
when the pattern began to disappear that this would not work. I had some trouble explaining to the people at
Kinko's what I needed, or I should say they were quite confused by my request for a "left" and a "right"..so
good luck! =0) Both of the "swirls" if you could call them that head towards the front of your body, so on your
left shoulder the main circle is facing forward, and the right shoulder the main circle is facing forward. It is
easier to show than to type.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use this method, and
trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to prevent the
bottles from doing that ?splat!? thing they do..where you?re going along just fine, and then the bottle,
well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0( See pics on previous page for this.
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge hassle. This
costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the surface I was
working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I placed my pattern piece on top
of the cardboard (pic 1), and pinned the edges down, don?t stretch out the fabric too much other wise when
you remove the piece the pattern will be distorted. I placed the sheets of wax free tracing paper over the
pattern piece (pic 2). Then I placed the clear transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 3) and used
some tape to keep it in place on the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that when
you paint over the white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show through the
paint, even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of fabric. You
should use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of where you have already been
on the pattern if you do not want to get confused (pic 4). Trust me on this one; you will get confused because it
is so intricate. The water erase markers DO leave a color stain remnant on the transparencies; most of it does
come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the white coming
through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the design. I lifted off the layers and
kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint with the textile medium. You can skip that part if you
are using fabric paint already, or sewing the design on. I painted light gray over the tracing (pic 6). Once I
covered the piece, I let it dry before moving it. I let the whole thing dry for 7 days, and then I used the steam
iron to do the heat setting. Follow the directions on your choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and
permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to re-create the pattern by free-hand style.
If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after practicing several times. Even with
using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical. However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see how it behaves
when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final pattern piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) ask them to enlarge your
pattern just bit. When I had my transparency made, I showed them the original I had printed with my computer,
and then asked them to make it a bit larger. DON'T believe them if they tell you that they do not carry an
11X14(or similar large size) on the transparency, THEY DO..they just do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, one for the left shoulder and one for the right shoulder, and then when you get
home mark the "good" usable side with a permanent marker. (i.e. "left shoulder"/"right shoulder") This way you
will not forget what side is the good side by the time you get around to using the patterns, and you will not get
confused about which way the pattern goes on.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $6.00 USD ($2.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $17.94 USD
(THIS PART IS GOING TO REPEAT ALLOT OF WHAT WAS ALREADY COVERED ABOVE BECAUSE THE
IDEA IS THE SAME. IF YOU WOULD LIKE A .JPG OF THE FAUX PATENT LEATHER ALLIGATOR SKIN
OR DRAGONFLY WINGS FOR USE AS A PATTERN, PLEASE EMAIL ME AND I WILL SEND THEM TO
YOU. )
Collar Details
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors Storm
Grey, Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of alligator skin (bear with me here, any reptile skin will do, or dragonfly wing
picture)
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of alligator skin or dragonfly wing in at least
8X10 size or 11X14 (made at Kinko's).
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Optional: Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine are made by "Vis-A-Vis" and I bought them at Staples
Office Supply)
OR: Free-hand design. (You can free-hand design, just be sure to use round edged random patterns, no
hard or squared edges free-hand design needs no transfer paper, pattern on transparency, or stylus tool,
etc.)
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the collar, I knew I had a several options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to crochet. The original collar in the film
has an overlay of a random pattern crochet lace. This must have been hand made, one of a kind, made just
for this costume, because I have never seen another lace in all my searches online, and in stores like it. I
really did not want to learn to crochet. Not because I do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you
are, or you do know how to crochet lace (you're totally awesome) you can try to follow the pattern on the
original by watching the DVD or printing out close up pictures available on the Internet. If you want to learn
how to crochet ask around at your fabric store. Allot of times they will have seminars and classes you can
pay for to learn new techniques.
If you want to find some books on this subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or local retailer and
look for these book titles:
-Donna Kooler's Encyclopedia of Crochet
-300 Crochet Stitches (The Harmony Guides, V. 6)
If you are able to find a ready made crochet lace in a fabric store that is dead on close to the original please
email me with the details on where you purchased it, and how much it was, etc. I would like to post it here. I
have seen some fabric that had a snake or reptile print in gray, black and white but it had a shiny
appearance to it and I do not think this would work, plus it was a stretch knit fabric.
I even thought of cutting up an old 70's macrame or crochet shawl or vest and using it in pieces over the
collar. This didn't work because a.)I could not find one similar enough to the original, b.)it weighed too much
and weighted down the collar too much.
I could use a sewing machine to make a random pattern, or I could hand sew a random pattern onto the
collar. I could not get my machine to do any sort of embroidery stitch at all, and the thought of hand sewing
all the little circles scared me! =0O ! Too labor intensive.
I looked everywhere in every fabric store for a fabric with the same pattern on it as the original, that I could
use as an overlay. I found nothing. If you are able to find a fabric in a store that is dead on close to the
original please email me with the details on where you purchased it, and how much it was, etc. I would like to
post it here.
I found some ready made stencils online. Check out The Stencil Library, which is located in the UK. It has
over 3,000 stencils available. You'll need to check out the stencils No. NC14, ST2, and ST6. All you do, is
go to the search library page. Then at the bottom of the page you have an option to scroll through the
stencils by number, find those numbers mentioned and hit go! It takes you right to the ordering page. Or
you can browse the entire library. All priced between 14.95-15.95 POUNDS. You'll need to hit the Universal
Currency Converter That web site will help you figure out your total from UK Pounds to USD.
Once I decided to use this pattern, the process of getting it to usable form was pretty simple. I have a
computer, a scanner, and a software program that allows me to manipulate the images I scan and turn color
into black and white. I took a scan of the purse, and then converted the image to black and white, then
manipulated the image until all I had left was the basic pattern. It is hard to believe by looking at the picture
that the image started with a brown faux patent alligator purse! In addition, if you stop and think about it, why
not alligator skin, because the original coat is made of suede, and a design like a reptile skin, something
natural, nature inspired makes sense for this costume.
A Fellow Pre-Raphaelite sends me this picture of a dragonfly wing. She says, "The rectangles and triangles
seem to be random as they are in nature, and I thought that it looked like the wing of a dragonfly. It also kind
of goes with the theme of the belt buckle having 'wings' ". Thanks! ;0)
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them make me a clear transparency of it. I had two
made. One side of the transparency is the "good" side and the other side cannot be used because if you try
to follow the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and be destroyed.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use this method,
and trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to prevent the
bottles from doing that !?splat!? thing they do..where you're going along just fine, and then the bottle,
well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0(
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge hassle. This
costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
D.)Plus above all else, it would feel funky next to your skin- for that matter- don?t ever put Fray Check liquid
fray preventative in the underarm area of a garment or anywhere that will be rubbing next to your skin!
(>ouch<).
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the surface I was
working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I placed my pattern piece on
top of the cardboard (pic 2), and pinned the edges down, don't stretch out the fabric too much other wise
when you remove the piece the pattern will be distorted. I placed the sheets of wax free tracing paper over
the pattern piece (pic 3). Then I placed the clear transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 4) and
used some tape to keep it in place on the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that
when you paint over the white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show through
the paint, even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of fabric. You
can also use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of where you have already
been on the pattern if you do not want to get confused. Since this pattern isn't too particular (unlike the
design on the sleeve tops) I did not use the markers when I did the collar. I just kept a piece of paper or my
hand over the areas that I was heading, to keep them out of sight until I got there. The water erase markers
DO leave a color stain remnant on the transparencies; most of it does come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the white coming
through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the design. I lifted off the layers and
kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint with the textile medium. You can skip that part if
you are using fabric paint already, or stitching on the design. I painted the pattern with the dark gray only at
first (pic 6). Once I covered the piece, I let it dry before moving it. Then I let the whole thing dry overnight. I
decided it needed more depth to be more realistic so I went over the pattern the next day by tracing the
circles with a lighter color (pic 7), not on top of the existing design, but just to the left or the right on the
inside or outside of the curves. This is hard to describe. I just went over the piece again with a lighter color,
but did not paint the lighter color over the darker color, I painted next to it. This really made it look real and
made me pleased (pic 7). I let the whole thing dry for the 7 days, and then I used the steam iron to do the
heat setting. Follow the directions on your choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to recreate the pattern by free-hand
style. If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after practicing several times.
Even with using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical. However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see how it behaves
when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final pattern piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) DON'T believe them if they
tell you that they do not carry an 11X14 size (or similar larger size) on the transparency, THEY DO..they just
do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, so that you can use them overlapping and you do not have to move the one
around once it's been taped down.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $2.00 USD ($1.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $13.94 USD
IDEA IS THE SAME. IF YOU WOULD LIKE A .JPG OF THE FAUX PATENT LEATHER ALLIGATOR SKIN
OR DRAGONFLY WINGS FOR USE AS A PATTERN, PLEASE EMAIL ME AND I WILL SEND THEM TO
YOU. )
Collar Details
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors Storm
Grey, Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of alligator skin (bear with me here, any reptile skin will do, or dragonfly wing
picture)
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of alligator skin or dragonfly wing in at least
8X10 size or 11X14 (made at Kinko's).
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Optional: Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine are made by "Vis-A-Vis" and I bought them at Staples
Office Supply)
OR: Free-hand design. (You can free-hand design, just be sure to use round edged random patterns, no
hard or squared edges free-hand design needs no transfer paper, pattern on transparency, or stylus tool,
etc.)
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the collar, I knew I had a several options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to crochet. The original collar in the film
has an overlay of a random pattern crochet lace. This must have been hand made, one of a kind, made just
for this costume, because I have never seen another lace in all my searches online, and in stores like it. I
really did not want to learn to crochet. Not because I do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you
are, or you do know how to crochet lace (you're totally awesome) you can try to follow the pattern on the
original by watching the DVD or printing out close up pictures available on the Internet. If you want to learn
how to crochet ask around at your fabric store. Allot of times they will have seminars and classes you can
pay for to learn new techniques.
If you want to find some books on this subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or local retailer and
look for these book titles:
-Donna Kooler's Encyclopedia of Crochet
-300 Crochet Stitches (The Harmony Guides, V. 6)
If you are able to find a ready made crochet lace in a fabric store that is dead on close to the original please
email me with the details on where you purchased it, and how much it was, etc. I would like to post it here. I
have seen some fabric that had a snake or reptile print in gray, black and white but it had a shiny
appearance to it and I do not think this would work, plus it was a stretch knit fabric.
I even thought of cutting up an old 70's macrame or crochet shawl or vest and using it in pieces over the
collar. This didn't work because a.)I could not find one similar enough to the original, b.)it weighed too much
and weighted down the collar too much.
I could use a sewing machine to make a random pattern, or I could hand sew a random pattern onto the
collar. I could not get my machine to do any sort of embroidery stitch at all, and the thought of hand sewing
all the little circles scared me! =0O ! Too labor intensive.
I looked everywhere in every fabric store for a fabric with the same pattern on it as the original, that I could
use as an overlay. I found nothing. If you are able to find a fabric in a store that is dead on close to the
original please email me with the details on where you purchased it, and how much it was, etc. I would like to
post it here.
I found some ready made stencils online. Check out The Stencil Library, which is located in the UK. It has
over 3,000 stencils available. You'll need to check out the stencils No. NC14, ST2, and ST6. All you do, is
go to the search library page. Then at the bottom of the page you have an option to scroll through the
stencils by number, find those numbers mentioned and hit go! It takes you right to the ordering page. Or
you can browse the entire library. All priced between 14.95-15.95 POUNDS. You'll need to hit the Universal
Currency Converter That web site will help you figure out your total from UK Pounds to USD.
Once I decided to use this pattern, the process of getting it to usable form was pretty simple. I have a
computer, a scanner, and a software program that allows me to manipulate the images I scan and turn color
into black and white. I took a scan of the purse, and then converted the image to black and white, then
manipulated the image until all I had left was the basic pattern. It is hard to believe by looking at the picture
that the image started with a brown faux patent alligator purse! In addition, if you stop and think about it, why
not alligator skin, because the original coat is made of suede, and a design like a reptile skin, something
natural, nature inspired makes sense for this costume.
A Fellow Pre-Raphaelite sends me this picture of a dragonfly wing. She says, "The rectangles and triangles
seem to be random as they are in nature, and I thought that it looked like the wing of a dragonfly. It also kind
of goes with the theme of the belt buckle having 'wings' ". Thanks! ;0)
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them make me a clear transparency of it. I had two
made. One side of the transparency is the "good" side and the other side cannot be used because if you try
to follow the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and be destroyed.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use this method,
and trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to prevent the
bottles from doing that !?splat!? thing they do..where you're going along just fine, and then the bottle,
well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0(
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge hassle. This
costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
D.)Plus above all else, it would feel funky next to your skin- for that matter- don?t ever put Fray Check liquid
fray preventative in the underarm area of a garment or anywhere that will be rubbing next to your skin!
(>ouch<).
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the surface I was
working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I placed my pattern piece on
top of the cardboard (pic 2), and pinned the edges down, don't stretch out the fabric too much other wise
when you remove the piece the pattern will be distorted. I placed the sheets of wax free tracing paper over
the pattern piece (pic 3). Then I placed the clear transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 4) and
used some tape to keep it in place on the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that
when you paint over the white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show through
the paint, even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of fabric. You
can also use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of where you have already
been on the pattern if you do not want to get confused. Since this pattern isn't too particular (unlike the
design on the sleeve tops) I did not use the markers when I did the collar. I just kept a piece of paper or my
hand over the areas that I was heading, to keep them out of sight until I got there. The water erase markers
DO leave a color stain remnant on the transparencies; most of it does come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the white coming
through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the design. I lifted off the layers and
kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint with the textile medium. You can skip that part if
you are using fabric paint already, or stitching on the design. I painted the pattern with the dark gray only at
first (pic 6). Once I covered the piece, I let it dry before moving it. Then I let the whole thing dry overnight. I
decided it needed more depth to be more realistic so I went over the pattern the next day by tracing the
circles with a lighter color (pic 7), not on top of the existing design, but just to the left or the right on the
inside or outside of the curves. This is hard to describe. I just went over the piece again with a lighter color,
but did not paint the lighter color over the darker color, I painted next to it. This really made it look real and
made me pleased (pic 7). I let the whole thing dry for the 7 days, and then I used the steam iron to do the
heat setting. Follow the directions on your choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to recreate the pattern by free-hand
style. If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after practicing several times.
Even with using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical. However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see how it behaves
when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final pattern piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) DON'T believe them if they
tell you that they do not carry an 11X14 size (or similar larger size) on the transparency, THEY DO..they just
do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, so that you can use them overlapping and you do not have to move the one
around once it's been taped down.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $2.00 USD ($1.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $13.94 USD
Belt Buckle Made From Sculpey Clay
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
About 2-3 blocks of polymer clay in a light color.
(I used Primo Sculpey Clay in the color pearl white)
One double-ended stylus tool
(It has a tiny knob on one end and a bit larger knob on the other end)
A ruler
One small rolling tool or a rolling pin that is small (see pics from Evenstar for example)
One bottle each of craft paint in metallic shiny silver, and shimmering pearl white.
1-2 small paintbrushes
1 bottle Sculpey Glaze in GLOSS (for a shinier finish)
Parchment paper, brown paper bag, or craft paper to cover your work surface
An oven :If you aren't an adult, PLEASE make this project with your parents
A flat baking sheet
Technique:
(When I was making the pendants, I was using silver colored clay. I have discovered it is a lot easier to use the
light pearlescent white clay and paint it silver. You do not need as many coats to get the nice shiny silver look,
and therefore less risk of peeling on the paint, so to all of you considering this get yourself the lighter color in
clay. It is always easier to make something that is light, appear darker; than it is to make something dark
appear lighter! =0) You can also try making these with the now available Precious Metal Clays or PMC Clays
that you fire.
First, I laid down some parchment paper on my table, because that's what I had on hand, but you could use a
brown paper bag or craft paper to cover your work surface.
Then I pulled off three portions of clay and kneaded them until soft and pliable in my hands. I used three out
of the four portions; so one package of clay makes one belt buckle.
Then I pressed the clay flat on my work surface, first with my hands then with the rolling tool my husband just
happened to have on hand (I think ours is for putting screening material into screen doors and windows).
At first glance, it seems like the buckle is a bunch of crazy crossed lines. However, if you examine the picture,
you will find the pattern of ins and outs, over and under. I noticed that there was eight "stems" lets call them at
the top. I didn't figure that there would be "stems" coming from out of no where, so I counted the large main
pieces that you see, the "wings" and "leaves" let?s call those. There are four "wings" and two "leaves". That
would make six "stems".
Then I noticed that there is a set of "stems" alone in there too. This makes 8 pieces. That means that each
piece I make intertwines either over or under in some way.
It is easier to look at the picture and follow the pieces with your fingers, or perhaps you could break out a set
of colored pens or pencils and follow the lines each in a different color. It is really easier than I can explain it. It
is allot harder to say, or type than to do.
Then I made the main pieces. The 4 "wings", 2 "leaves", and 2 "stems" (see pic #1) I wanted to keep every
piece in the right scale, so that as I was going along everything would be about the same size in the end.
I measured each piece I made when I was done, making sure they were all about 5 1/2 inches in length (see
pic #2).
I hand molded the shapes, and used the stylus tool to create the detail on the "wings" and "leaves" that I saw
in the black and white drawing.
Then I began to trace the ins and outs, over and under pattern on the drawing with the pieces (see pic #3). I
created the long top "arch" lets call that piece. It connects all the "stems" at the top. I wove the long "stems" of
the "leaves" and "wings" and tucked them under the top arch. Don't press anything into the top arch at this
point because there is allot of moving things around and adjusting to do. You would only have to pull it apart,
so keep it loose just tucked under at this point. I then made the lower "arch" that attached to the "leaves" and
two "stems".
Once I was ok with the weave, and the alignment of all the pieces, THEN I secured each piece into the arch for
support using the larger end of the stylus tool. This makes little indentations if you use it to gently press one
piece of clay into the other and makes them stay together permanently once baked. I tried to get a close up of
this but it came out kind of blurry (see pic #4). You won't see these marks, because they are on the backside.
Always make your seams on the back of something so the front looks great! =0)
The finished project before baking was about 6 inches from top to bottom and 6 inches wide (see pic #5). I
wanted something substantial, something that would not get lost in my costume, but I am sure if you wanted to
make this smaller, you could.
The finished project before paint, after baking (pic #6), and the finished project after the paint and gloss were
added (pic #7).
Overall, it took me about 30 minutes to sculpt. The cost for the project was nil since I already had most items
on hand from making the Pendant and Brooch. The only item I needed to purchase was the brick of clay.
You can get a better idea of cost total if you examine my Pendant "how-to" because I think I give a total cost
there. It is only a few dollars for the brick of clay.
Obviously, you do NOT want to roughhouse with this on, or yank the ribbons too tightly through it because it
will break. So just, wear it gently. =0)
If you want to learn more techniques for using Sculpey clay or polymer clay check Amazon.com or your
favorite online or local retail store for these book titles:
-The Polymer Clay Techniques Book
-Polymer: The Chameleon Clay
If you want to purchase a sterling silver replica of this buckle you can from the Noble Collection. However, it is
only 2 inches wide. Check out the link to the Noble Collection.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
About 2-3 blocks of polymer clay in a light color.
(I used Primo Sculpey Clay in the color pearl white)
One double-ended stylus tool
(It has a tiny knob on one end and a bit larger knob on the other end)
A ruler
One small rolling tool or a rolling pin that is small (see pics from Evenstar for example)
One bottle each of craft paint in metallic shiny silver, and shimmering pearl white.
1-2 small paintbrushes
1 bottle Sculpey Glaze in GLOSS (for a shinier finish)
Parchment paper, brown paper bag, or craft paper to cover your work surface
An oven :If you aren't an adult, PLEASE make this project with your parents
A flat baking sheet
Technique:
(When I was making the pendants, I was using silver colored clay. I have discovered it is a lot easier to use the
light pearlescent white clay and paint it silver. You do not need as many coats to get the nice shiny silver look,
and therefore less risk of peeling on the paint, so to all of you considering this get yourself the lighter color in
clay. It is always easier to make something that is light, appear darker; than it is to make something dark
appear lighter! =0) You can also try making these with the now available Precious Metal Clays or PMC Clays
that you fire.
First, I laid down some parchment paper on my table, because that's what I had on hand, but you could use a
brown paper bag or craft paper to cover your work surface.
Then I pulled off three portions of clay and kneaded them until soft and pliable in my hands. I used three out
of the four portions; so one package of clay makes one belt buckle.
Then I pressed the clay flat on my work surface, first with my hands then with the rolling tool my husband just
happened to have on hand (I think ours is for putting screening material into screen doors and windows).
At first glance, it seems like the buckle is a bunch of crazy crossed lines. However, if you examine the picture,
you will find the pattern of ins and outs, over and under. I noticed that there was eight "stems" lets call them at
the top. I didn't figure that there would be "stems" coming from out of no where, so I counted the large main
pieces that you see, the "wings" and "leaves" let?s call those. There are four "wings" and two "leaves". That
would make six "stems".
Then I noticed that there is a set of "stems" alone in there too. This makes 8 pieces. That means that each
piece I make intertwines either over or under in some way.
It is easier to look at the picture and follow the pieces with your fingers, or perhaps you could break out a set
of colored pens or pencils and follow the lines each in a different color. It is really easier than I can explain it. It
is allot harder to say, or type than to do.
Then I made the main pieces. The 4 "wings", 2 "leaves", and 2 "stems" (see pic #1) I wanted to keep every
piece in the right scale, so that as I was going along everything would be about the same size in the end.
I measured each piece I made when I was done, making sure they were all about 5 1/2 inches in length (see
pic #2).
I hand molded the shapes, and used the stylus tool to create the detail on the "wings" and "leaves" that I saw
in the black and white drawing.
Then I began to trace the ins and outs, over and under pattern on the drawing with the pieces (see pic #3). I
created the long top "arch" lets call that piece. It connects all the "stems" at the top. I wove the long "stems" of
the "leaves" and "wings" and tucked them under the top arch. Don't press anything into the top arch at this
point because there is allot of moving things around and adjusting to do. You would only have to pull it apart,
so keep it loose just tucked under at this point. I then made the lower "arch" that attached to the "leaves" and
two "stems".
Once I was ok with the weave, and the alignment of all the pieces, THEN I secured each piece into the arch for
support using the larger end of the stylus tool. This makes little indentations if you use it to gently press one
piece of clay into the other and makes them stay together permanently once baked. I tried to get a close up of
this but it came out kind of blurry (see pic #4). You won't see these marks, because they are on the backside.
Always make your seams on the back of something so the front looks great! =0)
The finished project before baking was about 6 inches from top to bottom and 6 inches wide (see pic #5). I
wanted something substantial, something that would not get lost in my costume, but I am sure if you wanted to
make this smaller, you could.
The finished project before paint, after baking (pic #6), and the finished project after the paint and gloss were
added (pic #7).
Overall, it took me about 30 minutes to sculpt. The cost for the project was nil since I already had most items
on hand from making the Pendant and Brooch. The only item I needed to purchase was the brick of clay.
You can get a better idea of cost total if you examine my Pendant "how-to" because I think I give a total cost
there. It is only a few dollars for the brick of clay.
Obviously, you do NOT want to roughhouse with this on, or yank the ribbons too tightly through it because it
will break. So just, wear it gently. =0)
If you want to learn more techniques for using Sculpey clay or polymer clay check Amazon.com or your
favorite online or local retail store for these book titles:
-The Polymer Clay Techniques Book
-Polymer: The Chameleon Clay
If you want to purchase a sterling silver replica of this buckle you can from the Noble Collection. However, it is
only 2 inches wide. Check out the link to the Noble Collection.