| Sleeve Design, Collar Details, Belt Buckle |
Sleeve Details
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors
Storm Grey, Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta
Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of the Chase Dress Sleeve Top Design.
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of Sleeve Top Design in 11X14 size
(or closest size available-8x10 is too small) made at Kinko's.
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine were made by "Vis-A-Vis" company and I bought mine at
Staples office supply store)
OR: Free-hand design.
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the sleeves, I knew I had a several
options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to embroider. The original in
the film has an embroidered pattern in a tone-on-tone color. I really did not want to learn to
embroider right now. Not because I do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you do
know how to embroider (you're totally awesome) you can trace the pattern onto your fabric and
then sew away! I could use my machine if I learned how to do a technique called "Free Motion
Embroidery". If you want to learn how to do this with your machine, check with your local fabric
store. Most of the time your fabric store will have seminars and classes you can pay for to learn
new techniques. Ask your store if they teach Free Motion Embroidery or Embroidery classes.
If you're looking for books on the subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or local retail
shop, and look up these book titles:
-The Encyclopedia of Embroidery
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: Basic Techniques
-The Machine Embroidery Handbook: Designing with Stitching, Manipulation & Color
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: How to Stabilize, Hoop and Stitch Decorative Designs
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them enlarge it for me, so that it was the
right size to cover my upper arm. Then I had them make me a clear transparency of it. I had two
made. You will need one for your left side, and one for your right side, because only one side of
the transparency is the "good" side and the other side cannot be used because if you try to follow
the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and be destroyed. At first, I thought I could just
buy one and flip it over to the left and right, but I soon found out when the pattern began to
disappear that this would not work. I had some trouble explaining to the people at Kinko's what I
needed, or I should say they were quite confused by my request for a "left" and a "right"..so
good luck! =0) Both of the "swirls" if you could call them that head towards the front of your
body, so on your left shoulder the main circle is facing forward, and the right shoulder the main
circle is facing forward. It is easier to show than to type.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use this
method, and trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to
prevent the bottles from doing that ?splat!? thing they do..where you?re going along just fine,
and then the bottle, well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0( See pics on previous page
for this.
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge hassle.
This costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the
surface I was working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I placed
my pattern piece on top of the cardboard (pic 1), and pinned the edges down, don?t stretch out
the fabric too much other wise when you remove the piece the pattern will be distorted. I placed
the sheets of wax free tracing paper over the pattern piece (pic 2). Then I placed the clear
transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 3) and used some tape to keep it in place on
the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that when you paint over the
white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show through the paint,
even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of
fabric. You should use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of where
you have already been on the pattern if you do not want to get confused (pic 4). Trust me on
this one; you will get confused because it is so intricate. The water erase markers DO leave a color
stain remnant on the transparencies; most of it does come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the
white coming through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the design. I
lifted off the layers and kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint with the
textile medium. You can skip that part if you are using fabric paint already, or sewing the design
on. I painted light gray over the tracing (pic 6). Once I covered the piece, I let it dry before
moving it. I let the whole thing dry for 7 days, and then I used the steam iron to do the heat
setting. Follow the directions on your choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and
permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to re-create the pattern by
free-hand style. If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after
practicing several times. Even with using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical.
However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see how
it behaves when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final pattern
piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) ask them to
enlarge your pattern just bit. When I had my transparency made, I showed them the original I
had printed with my computer, and then asked them to make it a bit larger. DON'T believe them if
they tell you that they do not carry an 11X14(or similar large size) on the transparency, THEY
DO..they just do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, one for the left shoulder and one for the right shoulder, and then
when you get home mark the "good" usable side with a permanent marker. (i.e. "left
shoulder"/"right shoulder") This way you will not forget what side is the good side by the time you
get around to using the patterns, and you will not get confused about which way the pattern
goes on.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $6.00 USD ($2.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $17.94 USD
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors
Storm Grey, Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta
Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of the Chase Dress Sleeve Top Design.
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of Sleeve Top Design in 11X14 size
(or closest size available-8x10 is too small) made at Kinko's.
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine were made by "Vis-A-Vis" company and I bought mine at
Staples office supply store)
OR: Free-hand design.
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the sleeves, I knew I had a several
options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to embroider. The original in
the film has an embroidered pattern in a tone-on-tone color. I really did not want to learn to
embroider right now. Not because I do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you do
know how to embroider (you're totally awesome) you can trace the pattern onto your fabric and
then sew away! I could use my machine if I learned how to do a technique called "Free Motion
Embroidery". If you want to learn how to do this with your machine, check with your local fabric
store. Most of the time your fabric store will have seminars and classes you can pay for to learn
new techniques. Ask your store if they teach Free Motion Embroidery or Embroidery classes.
If you're looking for books on the subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or local retail
shop, and look up these book titles:
-The Encyclopedia of Embroidery
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: Basic Techniques
-The Machine Embroidery Handbook: Designing with Stitching, Manipulation & Color
-Embroidery Machine Essentials: How to Stabilize, Hoop and Stitch Decorative Designs
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them enlarge it for me, so that it was the
right size to cover my upper arm. Then I had them make me a clear transparency of it. I had two
made. You will need one for your left side, and one for your right side, because only one side of
the transparency is the "good" side and the other side cannot be used because if you try to follow
the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and be destroyed. At first, I thought I could just
buy one and flip it over to the left and right, but I soon found out when the pattern began to
disappear that this would not work. I had some trouble explaining to the people at Kinko's what I
needed, or I should say they were quite confused by my request for a "left" and a "right"..so
good luck! =0) Both of the "swirls" if you could call them that head towards the front of your
body, so on your left shoulder the main circle is facing forward, and the right shoulder the main
circle is facing forward. It is easier to show than to type.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use this
method, and trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to
prevent the bottles from doing that ?splat!? thing they do..where you?re going along just fine,
and then the bottle, well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0( See pics on previous page
for this.
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge hassle.
This costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the
surface I was working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I placed
my pattern piece on top of the cardboard (pic 1), and pinned the edges down, don?t stretch out
the fabric too much other wise when you remove the piece the pattern will be distorted. I placed
the sheets of wax free tracing paper over the pattern piece (pic 2). Then I placed the clear
transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 3) and used some tape to keep it in place on
the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that when you paint over the
white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show through the paint,
even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of
fabric. You should use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of where
you have already been on the pattern if you do not want to get confused (pic 4). Trust me on
this one; you will get confused because it is so intricate. The water erase markers DO leave a color
stain remnant on the transparencies; most of it does come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the
white coming through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the design. I
lifted off the layers and kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint with the
textile medium. You can skip that part if you are using fabric paint already, or sewing the design
on. I painted light gray over the tracing (pic 6). Once I covered the piece, I let it dry before
moving it. I let the whole thing dry for 7 days, and then I used the steam iron to do the heat
setting. Follow the directions on your choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and
permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to re-create the pattern by
free-hand style. If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after
practicing several times. Even with using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical.
However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see how
it behaves when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final pattern
piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) ask them to
enlarge your pattern just bit. When I had my transparency made, I showed them the original I
had printed with my computer, and then asked them to make it a bit larger. DON'T believe them if
they tell you that they do not carry an 11X14(or similar large size) on the transparency, THEY
DO..they just do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, one for the left shoulder and one for the right shoulder, and then
when you get home mark the "good" usable side with a permanent marker. (i.e. "left
shoulder"/"right shoulder") This way you will not forget what side is the good side by the time you
get around to using the patterns, and you will not get confused about which way the pattern
goes on.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $6.00 USD ($2.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $17.94 USD
(THIS PART IS GOING TO REPEAT ALLOT OF WHAT WAS ALREADY COVERED ABOVE
BECAUSE THE IDEA IS THE SAME. IF YOU WOULD LIKE A .JPG OF THE FAUX PATENT
LEATHER ALLIGATOR SKIN OR DRAGONFLY WINGS FOR USE AS A PATTERN, PLEASE
EMAIL ME AND I WILL SEND THEM TO YOU. )
Collar Details
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors
Storm Grey, Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta
Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of alligator skin (bear with me here, any reptile skin will do, or
dragonfly wing picture)
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of alligator skin or dragonfly wing
in at least 8X10 size or 11X14 (made at Kinko's).
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Optional: Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine are made by "Vis-A-Vis" and I bought them at
Staples Office Supply)
OR: Free-hand design. (You can free-hand design, just be sure to use round edged random
patterns, no hard or squared edges free-hand design needs no transfer paper, pattern on
transparency, or stylus tool, etc.)
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the collar, I knew I had a several
options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to crochet. The original
collar in the film has an overlay of a random pattern crochet lace. This must have been hand
made, one of a kind, made just for this costume, because I have never seen another lace in all
my searches online, and in stores like it. I really did not want to learn to crochet. Not because I
do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you are, or you do know how to crochet
lace (you're totally awesome) you can try to follow the pattern on the original by watching the
DVD or printing out close up pictures available on the Internet. If you want to learn how to
crochet ask around at your fabric store. Allot of times they will have seminars and classes you
can pay for to learn new techniques.
If you want to find some books on this subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or
local retailer and look for these book titles:
-Donna Kooler's Encyclopedia of Crochet
-300 Crochet Stitches (The Harmony Guides, V. 6)
If you are able to find a ready made crochet lace in a fabric store that is dead on close to the
original please email me with the details on where you purchased it, and how much it was, etc. I
would like to post it here. I have seen some fabric that had a snake or reptile print in gray,
black and white but it had a shiny appearance to it and I do not think this would work, plus it
was a stretch knit fabric.
I even thought of cutting up an old 70's macrame or crochet shawl or vest and using it in
pieces over the collar. This didn't work because a.)I could not find one similar enough to the
original, b.)it weighed too much and weighted down the collar too much.
I could use a sewing machine to make a random pattern, or I could hand sew a random pattern
onto the collar. I could not get my machine to do any sort of embroidery stitch at all, and the
thought of hand sewing all the little circles scared me! =0O ! Too labor intensive.
I looked everywhere in every fabric store for a fabric with the same pattern on it as the original,
that I could use as an overlay. I found nothing. If you are able to find a fabric in a store that is
dead on close to the original please email me with the details on where you purchased it, and
how much it was, etc. I would like to post it here.
I found some ready made stencils online. Check out The Stencil Library, which is located in the
UK. It has over 3,000 stencils available. You'll need to check out the stencils No. NC14, ST2,
and ST6. All you do, is go to the search library page. Then at the bottom of the page you have
an option to scroll through the stencils by number, find those numbers mentioned and hit go!
It takes you right to the ordering page. Or you can browse the entire library. All priced between
14.95-15.95 POUNDS. You'll need to hit the Universal Currency Converter That web site will
help you figure out your total from UK Pounds to USD.
Once I decided to use this pattern, the process of getting it to usable form was pretty simple. I
have a computer, a scanner, and a software program that allows me to manipulate the images I
scan and turn color into black and white. I took a scan of the purse, and then converted the
image to black and white, then manipulated the image until all I had left was the basic pattern.
It is hard to believe by looking at the picture that the image started with a brown faux patent
alligator purse! In addition, if you stop and think about it, why not alligator skin, because the
original coat is made of suede, and a design like a reptile skin, something natural, nature
inspired makes sense for this costume.
A Fellow Pre-Raphaelite sends me this picture of a dragonfly wing. She says, "The rectangles
and triangles seem to be random as they are in nature, and I thought that it looked like the
wing of a dragonfly. It also kind of goes with the theme of the belt buckle having 'wings' ".
Thanks! ;0)
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them make me a clear transparency of
it. I had two made. One side of the transparency is the "good" side and the other side cannot
be used because if you try to follow the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and be
destroyed.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use
this method, and trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to
prevent the bottles from doing that !?splat!? thing they do..where you're going along just fine,
and then the bottle, well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0(
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge
hassle. This costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
D.)Plus above all else, it would feel funky next to your skin- for that matter- don?t ever put
Fray Check liquid fray preventative in the underarm area of a garment or anywhere that will be
rubbing next to your skin! (>ouch<).
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the
surface I was working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I
placed my pattern piece on top of the cardboard (pic 2), and pinned the edges down, don't
stretch out the fabric too much other wise when you remove the piece the pattern will be
distorted. I placed the sheets of wax free tracing paper over the pattern piece (pic 3). Then I
placed the clear transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 4) and used some tape to
keep it in place on the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that when
you paint over the white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show
through the paint, even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of
fabric. You can also use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of
where you have already been on the pattern if you do not want to get confused. Since this
pattern isn't too particular (unlike the design on the sleeve tops) I did not use the markers
when I did the collar. I just kept a piece of paper or my hand over the areas that I was heading,
to keep them out of sight until I got there. The water erase markers DO leave a color stain
remnant on the transparencies; most of it does come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the
white coming through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the
design. I lifted off the layers and kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint
with the textile medium. You can skip that part if you are using fabric paint already, or stitching
on the design. I painted the pattern with the dark gray only at first (pic 6). Once I covered the
piece, I let it dry before moving it. Then I let the whole thing dry overnight. I decided it needed
more depth to be more realistic so I went over the pattern the next day by tracing the circles
with a lighter color (pic 7), not on top of the existing design, but just to the left or the right on
the inside or outside of the curves. This is hard to describe. I just went over the piece again
with a lighter color, but did not paint the lighter color over the darker color, I painted next to it.
This really made it look real and made me pleased (pic 7). I let the whole thing dry for the 7
days, and then I used the steam iron to do the heat setting. Follow the directions on your
choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to recreate the pattern by
free-hand style. If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after
practicing several times. Even with using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical.
However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see
how it behaves when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final
pattern piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) DON'T believe
them if they tell you that they do not carry an 11X14 size (or similar larger size) on the
transparency, THEY DO..they just do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, so that you can use them overlapping and you do not have to
move the one around once it's been taped down.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $2.00 USD ($1.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $13.94 USD
BECAUSE THE IDEA IS THE SAME. IF YOU WOULD LIKE A .JPG OF THE FAUX PATENT
LEATHER ALLIGATOR SKIN OR DRAGONFLY WINGS FOR USE AS A PATTERN, PLEASE
EMAIL ME AND I WILL SEND THEM TO YOU. )
Collar Details
What you will need:
Small paintbrush with narrow pointed tip end
Several pins
Piece of cardboard larger than the area you will be painting
Clear tape (scotch tape)
Fabric paint in the colors dark gray and white
OR: Any brand acrylic paint in a dark gray color and white (I used Delta Ceramcoat in the colors
Storm Grey, Hippo Grey, and White) mixed with any brand Textile Medium (I used Delta
Ceramcoat Textile Medium)
Pattern for design:
1.)Black and White photocopy of alligator skin (bear with me here, any reptile skin will do, or
dragonfly wing picture)
2.)Clear transparency made from Black and White photocopy of alligator skin or dragonfly wing
in at least 8X10 size or 11X14 (made at Kinko's).
White Wax Free Tracing Paper (package comes with multiple colors including white)
Double-ended stylus tool (same one used in creation of Belt Buckle)
Optional: Wet Erase Transparency Markers (mine are made by "Vis-A-Vis" and I bought them at
Staples Office Supply)
OR: Free-hand design. (You can free-hand design, just be sure to use round edged random
patterns, no hard or squared edges free-hand design needs no transfer paper, pattern on
transparency, or stylus tool, etc.)
Research Done :
When I decided to figure out how to make the design on the collar, I knew I had a several
options.
I could be as true to the original as possible, and teach myself how to crochet. The original
collar in the film has an overlay of a random pattern crochet lace. This must have been hand
made, one of a kind, made just for this costume, because I have never seen another lace in all
my searches online, and in stores like it. I really did not want to learn to crochet. Not because I
do not like it, but I just was not into going that far. If you are, or you do know how to crochet
lace (you're totally awesome) you can try to follow the pattern on the original by watching the
DVD or printing out close up pictures available on the Internet. If you want to learn how to
crochet ask around at your fabric store. Allot of times they will have seminars and classes you
can pay for to learn new techniques.
If you want to find some books on this subject, go to Amazon.com or your favorite online or
local retailer and look for these book titles:
-Donna Kooler's Encyclopedia of Crochet
-300 Crochet Stitches (The Harmony Guides, V. 6)
If you are able to find a ready made crochet lace in a fabric store that is dead on close to the
original please email me with the details on where you purchased it, and how much it was, etc. I
would like to post it here. I have seen some fabric that had a snake or reptile print in gray,
black and white but it had a shiny appearance to it and I do not think this would work, plus it
was a stretch knit fabric.
I even thought of cutting up an old 70's macrame or crochet shawl or vest and using it in
pieces over the collar. This didn't work because a.)I could not find one similar enough to the
original, b.)it weighed too much and weighted down the collar too much.
I could use a sewing machine to make a random pattern, or I could hand sew a random pattern
onto the collar. I could not get my machine to do any sort of embroidery stitch at all, and the
thought of hand sewing all the little circles scared me! =0O ! Too labor intensive.
I looked everywhere in every fabric store for a fabric with the same pattern on it as the original,
that I could use as an overlay. I found nothing. If you are able to find a fabric in a store that is
dead on close to the original please email me with the details on where you purchased it, and
how much it was, etc. I would like to post it here.
I found some ready made stencils online. Check out The Stencil Library, which is located in the
UK. It has over 3,000 stencils available. You'll need to check out the stencils No. NC14, ST2,
and ST6. All you do, is go to the search library page. Then at the bottom of the page you have
an option to scroll through the stencils by number, find those numbers mentioned and hit go!
It takes you right to the ordering page. Or you can browse the entire library. All priced between
14.95-15.95 POUNDS. You'll need to hit the Universal Currency Converter That web site will
help you figure out your total from UK Pounds to USD.
Once I decided to use this pattern, the process of getting it to usable form was pretty simple. I
have a computer, a scanner, and a software program that allows me to manipulate the images I
scan and turn color into black and white. I took a scan of the purse, and then converted the
image to black and white, then manipulated the image until all I had left was the basic pattern.
It is hard to believe by looking at the picture that the image started with a brown faux patent
alligator purse! In addition, if you stop and think about it, why not alligator skin, because the
original coat is made of suede, and a design like a reptile skin, something natural, nature
inspired makes sense for this costume.
A Fellow Pre-Raphaelite sends me this picture of a dragonfly wing. She says, "The rectangles
and triangles seem to be random as they are in nature, and I thought that it looked like the
wing of a dragonfly. It also kind of goes with the theme of the belt buckle having 'wings' ".
Thanks! ;0)
I took the black and white print out to Kinko's and had them make me a clear transparency of
it. I had two made. One side of the transparency is the "good" side and the other side cannot
be used because if you try to follow the pattern on that side the pattern will rub off and be
destroyed.
Painting the pattern on with Puff paint occurred to me. There are several reasons NOT to use
this method, and trust me on this, because yes I tried it.
A.)It weighs too much.
B.)Unless you know how to use those bottles differently, I do not know how you will be able to
prevent the bottles from doing that !?splat!? thing they do..where you're going along just fine,
and then the bottle, well..farts..and there is paint in a huge puddle =0(
C.)It sticks to itself even when dry and may damage your costume in the end. Just a huge
hassle. This costume is complicated enough; you do not need extra frustration.
D.)Plus above all else, it would feel funky next to your skin- for that matter- don?t ever put
Fray Check liquid fray preventative in the underarm area of a garment or anywhere that will be
rubbing next to your skin! (>ouch<).
So, what was left? Painting it. That, I could handle, and here is what I did.
Technique :
Once I had my pattern piece cut out, I placed it on a piece of cardboard (pic 1) to protect the
surface I was working on from seeping paint and to keep the piece in place while painting. I
placed my pattern piece on top of the cardboard (pic 2), and pinned the edges down, don't
stretch out the fabric too much other wise when you remove the piece the pattern will be
distorted. I placed the sheets of wax free tracing paper over the pattern piece (pic 3). Then I
placed the clear transparency over the wax free tracing paper (pic 4) and used some tape to
keep it in place on the cardboard. You want to use white wax free tracing paper, so that when
you paint over the white it is not seen, if you use a bold color like the blue or red it might show
through the paint, even though it is designed to be removed with water easily.
I used the thicker end of the double-ended stylus tool to trace the pattern through all layers of
fabric. You can also use the water erase transparency markers so that you can keep track of
where you have already been on the pattern if you do not want to get confused. Since this
pattern isn't too particular (unlike the design on the sleeve tops) I did not use the markers
when I did the collar. I just kept a piece of paper or my hand over the areas that I was heading,
to keep them out of sight until I got there. The water erase markers DO leave a color stain
remnant on the transparencies; most of it does come off.
After I began, I lifted up a corner or two to make sure I was pressing hard enough to see the
white coming through (pic 5). I continued until all the pattern piece was covered with the
design. I lifted off the layers and kept the pattern piece pinned down. Then I mixed my paint
with the textile medium. You can skip that part if you are using fabric paint already, or stitching
on the design. I painted the pattern with the dark gray only at first (pic 6). Once I covered the
piece, I let it dry before moving it. Then I let the whole thing dry overnight. I decided it needed
more depth to be more realistic so I went over the pattern the next day by tracing the circles
with a lighter color (pic 7), not on top of the existing design, but just to the left or the right on
the inside or outside of the curves. This is hard to describe. I just went over the piece again
with a lighter color, but did not paint the lighter color over the darker color, I painted next to it.
This really made it look real and made me pleased (pic 7). I let the whole thing dry for the 7
days, and then I used the steam iron to do the heat setting. Follow the directions on your
choice of fabric paint to make the paint washable and permanent.
Note: You can avoid these steps if you feel confident in your ability to recreate the pattern by
free-hand style. If you feel confident to use puff paints, go for it. I did not feel I could, after
practicing several times. Even with using the pattern and painting it on, it is not identical.
However, it does look very authentic.
MORE TIPS:
*Test paint on the same fabric you will be using to make sure that it will work for you, to see
how it behaves when painted on (does it bleed through allot?) before you use it on the final
pattern piece.
*Follow all manufacturer instructions on how to make the fabric paint permanent.
*When heading to your local Kinko's (or local reproduction service like Kinko's) DON'T believe
them if they tell you that they do not carry an 11X14 size (or similar larger size) on the
transparency, THEY DO..they just do not realize it! LOL =0P Keep Asking.
*Ask for TWO transparencies, so that you can use them overlapping and you do not have to
move the one around once it's been taped down.
-Total cost for all transparencies made: $2.00 USD ($1.00 USD each)
-Total cost for Water Erase markers: $4.19 USD
-Total cost for Paints: $5.00 USD
-Total cost for Wax Free Tracing Paper: $2.75 USD
-TOTAL: $13.94 USD
Belt Buckle Made From Sculpey Clay
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
About 2-3 blocks of polymer clay in a light color.
(I used Primo Sculpey Clay in the color pearl white)
One double-ended stylus tool
(It has a tiny knob on one end and a bit larger knob on the other end)
A ruler
One small rolling tool or a rolling pin that is small (see pics from Evenstar for example)
One bottle each of craft paint in metallic shiny silver, and shimmering pearl white.
1-2 small paintbrushes
1 bottle Sculpey Glaze in GLOSS (for a shinier finish)
Parchment paper, brown paper bag, or craft paper to cover your work surface
An oven :If you aren't an adult, PLEASE make this project with your parents
A flat baking sheet
Technique:
(When I was making the pendants, I was using silver colored clay. I have discovered it is a lot
easier to use the light pearlescent white clay and paint it silver. You do not need as many coats
to get the nice shiny silver look, and therefore less risk of peeling on the paint, so to all of you
considering this get yourself the lighter color in clay. It is always easier to make something that is
light, appear darker; than it is to make something dark appear lighter! =0) You can also try
making these with the now available Precious Metal Clays or PMC Clays that you fire.
First, I laid down some parchment paper on my table, because that's what I had on hand, but
you could use a brown paper bag or craft paper to cover your work surface.
Then I pulled off three portions of clay and kneaded them until soft and pliable in my hands. I
used three out of the four portions; so one package of clay makes one belt buckle.
Then I pressed the clay flat on my work surface, first with my hands then with the rolling tool my
husband just happened to have on hand (I think ours is for putting screening material into
screen doors and windows).
At first glance, it seems like the buckle is a bunch of crazy crossed lines. However, if you examine
the picture, you will find the pattern of ins and outs, over and under. I noticed that there was
eight "stems" lets call them at the top. I didn't figure that there would be "stems" coming from
out of no where, so I counted the large main pieces that you see, the "wings" and "leaves" let?s
call those. There are four "wings" and two "leaves". That would make six "stems".
Then I noticed that there is a set of "stems" alone in there too. This makes 8 pieces. That means
that each piece I make intertwines either over or under in some way.
It is easier to look at the picture and follow the pieces with your fingers, or perhaps you could
break out a set of colored pens or pencils and follow the lines each in a different color. It is really
easier than I can explain it. It is allot harder to say, or type than to do.
Then I made the main pieces. The 4 "wings", 2 "leaves", and 2 "stems" (see pic #1) I wanted to
keep every piece in the right scale, so that as I was going along everything would be about the
same size in the end.
I measured each piece I made when I was done, making sure they were all about 5 1/2 inches in
length (see pic #2).
I hand molded the shapes, and used the stylus tool to create the detail on the "wings" and
"leaves" that I saw in the black and white drawing.
Then I began to trace the ins and outs, over and under pattern on the drawing with the pieces
(see pic #3). I created the long top "arch" lets call that piece. It connects all the "stems" at the
top. I wove the long "stems" of the "leaves" and "wings" and tucked them under the top arch.
Don't press anything into the top arch at this point because there is allot of moving things
around and adjusting to do. You would only have to pull it apart, so keep it loose just tucked
under at this point. I then made the lower "arch" that attached to the "leaves" and two "stems".
Once I was ok with the weave, and the alignment of all the pieces, THEN I secured each piece into
the arch for support using the larger end of the stylus tool. This makes little indentations if you
use it to gently press one piece of clay into the other and makes them stay together permanently
once baked. I tried to get a close up of this but it came out kind of blurry (see pic #4). You won't
see these marks, because they are on the backside. Always make your seams on the back of
something so the front looks great! =0)
The finished project before baking was about 6 inches from top to bottom and 6 inches wide (see
pic #5). I wanted something substantial, something that would not get lost in my costume, but I
am sure if you wanted to make this smaller, you could.
The finished project before paint, after baking (pic #6), and the finished project after the paint
and gloss were added (pic #7).
Overall, it took me about 30 minutes to sculpt. The cost for the project was nil since I already
had most items on hand from making the Pendant and Brooch. The only item I needed to
purchase was the brick of clay.
You can get a better idea of cost total if you examine my Pendant "how-to" because I think I give
a total cost there. It is only a few dollars for the brick of clay.
Obviously, you do NOT want to roughhouse with this on, or yank the ribbons too tightly through
it because it will break. So just, wear it gently. =0)
If you want to learn more techniques for using Sculpey clay or polymer clay check Amazon.com or
your favorite online or local retail store for these book titles:
-The Polymer Clay Techniques Book
-Polymer: The Chameleon Clay
If you want to purchase a sterling silver replica of this buckle you can from the Noble Collection.
However, it is only 2 inches wide. Check out the link to the Noble Collection.
WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
About 2-3 blocks of polymer clay in a light color.
(I used Primo Sculpey Clay in the color pearl white)
One double-ended stylus tool
(It has a tiny knob on one end and a bit larger knob on the other end)
A ruler
One small rolling tool or a rolling pin that is small (see pics from Evenstar for example)
One bottle each of craft paint in metallic shiny silver, and shimmering pearl white.
1-2 small paintbrushes
1 bottle Sculpey Glaze in GLOSS (for a shinier finish)
Parchment paper, brown paper bag, or craft paper to cover your work surface
An oven :If you aren't an adult, PLEASE make this project with your parents
A flat baking sheet
Technique:
(When I was making the pendants, I was using silver colored clay. I have discovered it is a lot
easier to use the light pearlescent white clay and paint it silver. You do not need as many coats
to get the nice shiny silver look, and therefore less risk of peeling on the paint, so to all of you
considering this get yourself the lighter color in clay. It is always easier to make something that is
light, appear darker; than it is to make something dark appear lighter! =0) You can also try
making these with the now available Precious Metal Clays or PMC Clays that you fire.
First, I laid down some parchment paper on my table, because that's what I had on hand, but
you could use a brown paper bag or craft paper to cover your work surface.
Then I pulled off three portions of clay and kneaded them until soft and pliable in my hands. I
used three out of the four portions; so one package of clay makes one belt buckle.
Then I pressed the clay flat on my work surface, first with my hands then with the rolling tool my
husband just happened to have on hand (I think ours is for putting screening material into
screen doors and windows).
At first glance, it seems like the buckle is a bunch of crazy crossed lines. However, if you examine
the picture, you will find the pattern of ins and outs, over and under. I noticed that there was
eight "stems" lets call them at the top. I didn't figure that there would be "stems" coming from
out of no where, so I counted the large main pieces that you see, the "wings" and "leaves" let?s
call those. There are four "wings" and two "leaves". That would make six "stems".
Then I noticed that there is a set of "stems" alone in there too. This makes 8 pieces. That means
that each piece I make intertwines either over or under in some way.
It is easier to look at the picture and follow the pieces with your fingers, or perhaps you could
break out a set of colored pens or pencils and follow the lines each in a different color. It is really
easier than I can explain it. It is allot harder to say, or type than to do.
Then I made the main pieces. The 4 "wings", 2 "leaves", and 2 "stems" (see pic #1) I wanted to
keep every piece in the right scale, so that as I was going along everything would be about the
same size in the end.
I measured each piece I made when I was done, making sure they were all about 5 1/2 inches in
length (see pic #2).
I hand molded the shapes, and used the stylus tool to create the detail on the "wings" and
"leaves" that I saw in the black and white drawing.
Then I began to trace the ins and outs, over and under pattern on the drawing with the pieces
(see pic #3). I created the long top "arch" lets call that piece. It connects all the "stems" at the
top. I wove the long "stems" of the "leaves" and "wings" and tucked them under the top arch.
Don't press anything into the top arch at this point because there is allot of moving things
around and adjusting to do. You would only have to pull it apart, so keep it loose just tucked
under at this point. I then made the lower "arch" that attached to the "leaves" and two "stems".
Once I was ok with the weave, and the alignment of all the pieces, THEN I secured each piece into
the arch for support using the larger end of the stylus tool. This makes little indentations if you
use it to gently press one piece of clay into the other and makes them stay together permanently
once baked. I tried to get a close up of this but it came out kind of blurry (see pic #4). You won't
see these marks, because they are on the backside. Always make your seams on the back of
something so the front looks great! =0)
The finished project before baking was about 6 inches from top to bottom and 6 inches wide (see
pic #5). I wanted something substantial, something that would not get lost in my costume, but I
am sure if you wanted to make this smaller, you could.
The finished project before paint, after baking (pic #6), and the finished project after the paint
and gloss were added (pic #7).
Overall, it took me about 30 minutes to sculpt. The cost for the project was nil since I already
had most items on hand from making the Pendant and Brooch. The only item I needed to
purchase was the brick of clay.
You can get a better idea of cost total if you examine my Pendant "how-to" because I think I give
a total cost there. It is only a few dollars for the brick of clay.
Obviously, you do NOT want to roughhouse with this on, or yank the ribbons too tightly through
it because it will break. So just, wear it gently. =0)
If you want to learn more techniques for using Sculpey clay or polymer clay check Amazon.com or
your favorite online or local retail store for these book titles:
-The Polymer Clay Techniques Book
-Polymer: The Chameleon Clay
If you want to purchase a sterling silver replica of this buckle you can from the Noble Collection.
However, it is only 2 inches wide. Check out the link to the Noble Collection.