| Bodice Inspired Window Treatments |
Here I share with you my design for the window treatments inside my sewing room studio. The photograph above shows how I
got started on this project, how I formed the ideas into reality. If you click on the images the new window will open with a
larger version of it.
The first step:
I found this photo in a magazine years ago (pic 1). It is supposedly from the book titled, "The Window: Inspired Ideas for
Framing Your View", by Becky Charton & Belinda Brolo. ISBN: 1574863142, available through Amazon.com at the current
price of $17.00 USD. I immediately saw something else when I looked at that photo. Instead of seeing the idea the designer had
made, I saw dresses. Dresses with bodices, bodices with laces. I knew I needed to hold onto this picture for "someday" and
stashed it away in my design binder. A design binder is a very good idea for all of you out there. Clip your magazines and articles
and begin compiling ideas separated by dividers in the binder categorized by room or however you do it. Once you have several
pages in this book you will begin to see what your own personal true style is, it emerges from the pages. You can also do this
with costuming, or dressmaking, etc. Start compiling inspiration and start putting it together. It's magic.
The next step:
Designing my own idea. In (pic 2) I show my original sketch for my idea. So then next step you want to take is to come up with
your own idea and try to draw it down. NO ONE will care if it is sloppy or imperfect, this is just for you. If you absolutely cannot
draw a straight line ever, get someone you know to do this step for you, or use photos. Once I had the idea from brain to paper,
I had to begin the next step, which is planning and measuring and adding up numbers. I planned to make the same treatment
for the two larger windows and a simple version in a valance form for the small square window. I went to the windows and
measured them high and wide. I envisioned how big I wanted these "bodices" to be. I made notes. I figured in my mind how
much yardage I would need to get the panels to touch the floor in a soft puddle by measuring from an approx. rod installation
point. I wasn't using exact science. The hardest part is deciding how much fabric you really need, when you are not going by the
guidelines on the back of a prefab pattern envelope. When you are on your own. A good book to help you measure for your own
window treatments as far as fabric yardage guidelines is titled: "How to Dress a Naked Window" by Donna Babylon. ISBN
0801987431. Available through Amazon.com for the current price of $14.00 USD. Although I did not use this book when
creating these, I did look it over and noticed she has these guidelines in the back of the book for you. Most decorating or
window treatment books have this information for you. Another awesome book on this subject is titled: "The Encyclopedia of
Window Fashions" by Charles T. Randall and Patricia M. Howard. ISBN 1890379034 Available through Amazon.com for
current price of $21.00.
Step Three:
Deciding the color scheme and fabric and budget. In (pic 3) you can see my choices for the colors in my studio. I had already
decided what color I was painting the walls and what the accent colors were going to be before I started the window treatment,
but you can do it at this point too. I painted the room. I brought the furniture back in. I hung blinds (which in the climate I am
in- bright glare and hot hot summers is a necessity) but you would not have to do that if you don't want or like blinds. I went to
the local fabric store with my color paint chips in hand looking for fabric with them. I had no predetermined budget. But if you
are on a tight budget you might want to take your color samples with you on a day they are having a sale only or just stick to
looking in the fabric that is in your price range. I know how tempting and frustrating it can be to find the "perfect" fabric only
to have it be too expensive. I feel your pain. If you get into that hole you can always bail yourself out with less expensive
complimentary items. Set your budget ahead of time before you go to the fabric store. Know what you want to spend or rather
how much you can spend and focus only on what you're after. Since I had decided the color scheme and brought the chips in
with me I just went from bolt area to area looking using the color chips like a divining rod. When I found the fabrics (pic 4) I
took them to the cutting table and asked for a sample of each so that I could take them home and make a final decision. A word
of caution however, I can't tell you how many times I have fallen for a fabric but not purchased it that moment, and returned
several weeks later only to find it gone. Most of the local fabric stores will not re-order these items either- especially if what you
found was a "seasonal" item that got left over. So, that being said the very best thing to do is to buy on the spot. This goes for any
projects you're working on. If you get the fabric home, and hate it in the room. Don't wash it or mess with it at all, and take it
back. I have gotten my cash back doing this at the local Jo-Ann but you might want to clarify the store's return policy on fabric
before they wield the scissors, it might be a case of all sales final on sale fabrics. You can see the sad state of my sewing studio
before I redecorated it in (pics 5-7), and yep that's some of my art hanging above the sewing table.
got started on this project, how I formed the ideas into reality. If you click on the images the new window will open with a
larger version of it.
The first step:
I found this photo in a magazine years ago (pic 1). It is supposedly from the book titled, "The Window: Inspired Ideas for
Framing Your View", by Becky Charton & Belinda Brolo. ISBN: 1574863142, available through Amazon.com at the current
price of $17.00 USD. I immediately saw something else when I looked at that photo. Instead of seeing the idea the designer had
made, I saw dresses. Dresses with bodices, bodices with laces. I knew I needed to hold onto this picture for "someday" and
stashed it away in my design binder. A design binder is a very good idea for all of you out there. Clip your magazines and articles
and begin compiling ideas separated by dividers in the binder categorized by room or however you do it. Once you have several
pages in this book you will begin to see what your own personal true style is, it emerges from the pages. You can also do this
with costuming, or dressmaking, etc. Start compiling inspiration and start putting it together. It's magic.
The next step:
Designing my own idea. In (pic 2) I show my original sketch for my idea. So then next step you want to take is to come up with
your own idea and try to draw it down. NO ONE will care if it is sloppy or imperfect, this is just for you. If you absolutely cannot
draw a straight line ever, get someone you know to do this step for you, or use photos. Once I had the idea from brain to paper,
I had to begin the next step, which is planning and measuring and adding up numbers. I planned to make the same treatment
for the two larger windows and a simple version in a valance form for the small square window. I went to the windows and
measured them high and wide. I envisioned how big I wanted these "bodices" to be. I made notes. I figured in my mind how
much yardage I would need to get the panels to touch the floor in a soft puddle by measuring from an approx. rod installation
point. I wasn't using exact science. The hardest part is deciding how much fabric you really need, when you are not going by the
guidelines on the back of a prefab pattern envelope. When you are on your own. A good book to help you measure for your own
window treatments as far as fabric yardage guidelines is titled: "How to Dress a Naked Window" by Donna Babylon. ISBN
0801987431. Available through Amazon.com for the current price of $14.00 USD. Although I did not use this book when
creating these, I did look it over and noticed she has these guidelines in the back of the book for you. Most decorating or
window treatment books have this information for you. Another awesome book on this subject is titled: "The Encyclopedia of
Window Fashions" by Charles T. Randall and Patricia M. Howard. ISBN 1890379034 Available through Amazon.com for
current price of $21.00.
Step Three:
Deciding the color scheme and fabric and budget. In (pic 3) you can see my choices for the colors in my studio. I had already
decided what color I was painting the walls and what the accent colors were going to be before I started the window treatment,
but you can do it at this point too. I painted the room. I brought the furniture back in. I hung blinds (which in the climate I am
in- bright glare and hot hot summers is a necessity) but you would not have to do that if you don't want or like blinds. I went to
the local fabric store with my color paint chips in hand looking for fabric with them. I had no predetermined budget. But if you
are on a tight budget you might want to take your color samples with you on a day they are having a sale only or just stick to
looking in the fabric that is in your price range. I know how tempting and frustrating it can be to find the "perfect" fabric only
to have it be too expensive. I feel your pain. If you get into that hole you can always bail yourself out with less expensive
complimentary items. Set your budget ahead of time before you go to the fabric store. Know what you want to spend or rather
how much you can spend and focus only on what you're after. Since I had decided the color scheme and brought the chips in
with me I just went from bolt area to area looking using the color chips like a divining rod. When I found the fabrics (pic 4) I
took them to the cutting table and asked for a sample of each so that I could take them home and make a final decision. A word
of caution however, I can't tell you how many times I have fallen for a fabric but not purchased it that moment, and returned
several weeks later only to find it gone. Most of the local fabric stores will not re-order these items either- especially if what you
found was a "seasonal" item that got left over. So, that being said the very best thing to do is to buy on the spot. This goes for any
projects you're working on. If you get the fabric home, and hate it in the room. Don't wash it or mess with it at all, and take it
back. I have gotten my cash back doing this at the local Jo-Ann but you might want to clarify the store's return policy on fabric
before they wield the scissors, it might be a case of all sales final on sale fabrics. You can see the sad state of my sewing studio
before I redecorated it in (pics 5-7), and yep that's some of my art hanging above the sewing table.
Step Four:
Making pattern for "Bodices", Making Sheers & Panels.
I did not use any pattern or really anything to make the sheers. All I did was cut the yardage in half, because I knew I wanted
two panels. Then I hemmed them and made the rod pockets. That's it! I didn't even treat the selvage edges because they do
not need anything. I made about a 2 1/2" hem on the bottom of each panel, and I made a 1 1/2 inch hem across the top,
and then folded it over and stitched again to create the pocket for the rod on each panel. I just winged it but if you know a
better way go for it. I hung these on a single traditional shirr rod.
Making the "Bodice":
I made my own pattern for the "bodice" (pic 1) but you could probably use a prefab pattern. It is really a simple pattern to
make and follow. The measurements for the pattern piece I made out of muslin are: 16" across top edge, 14 1/4" on back
edge, 17 3/8" across bottom edge, and 21" across front edge where grommets or eyelets will be placed. With 1" hem
allowances. Grain line vertical in center, and center fold marking on back edge. I made a decision on how I wanted the
bottom edge of the bodice to look, and just made a simple point with a sharp angle. You could make a bodice in any style you
like best. Then I cut my good fabric, to divide it into 4 portions- I folded the width in half and then made four 22 inch long
pieces. I studied the pattern on the fabric. I noticed that I liked the paisley in the pattern pointing upward rather than
downward, so turned the fabric in that direction before I cut. (pic 2) After That I just pressed and stitched the hems
accordingly (pic 3). When I got to the 'points' up front, I had to work at maintaining the integrity of that corner. I folded and
folded until I figured out a way of doing it that it will stay a nice clean point when stitched. If you do yours this way you will
see what I mean. You just have to play with it, folding it under until you do not have bulk, but a nice- almost mitered corner.
Once you have repeated this process 4 times, or as many times as you need to make all the bodices for your windows, settle in
for some grommet or eyelet work. (pics 4-5) I measured 2 1/2" inches down from the top and made the first mark, and then
spaced them every 2" apart. Making 8 grommet marks total. This type of slick fabric is hard to mark- use a water-soluble or
disappearing pen rather than any wax method. I made the holes through and added in the grommets. I used the grommet
pliers to crimp the grommets onto the fabric. If you're making 4 bodices, you'll need 16 grommets or eyelets for each bodice,
a total of 64 just for the panels.
Making The Panels & Attaching Them To The Bodices:
I laid the solid panel fabric out on my cutting table, folding the width in half and began making marks across the fabric for
cutting. I cut four panels, one every 2 1/2 yards. I then pressed the sides over about 2" and stitched them. I didn't fold the
selvage edge in because it looked fine to me. Then I pressed the top edge over about 2", bringing the edge under this time and
then stitched. I laid the bodice out flat on the cutting table like in (pic 3) and brought my panel fabric to it, holding up the
rest of the yardage bulk with the back of my chair. I pinned the panel fabric to the bodice with the wrong side(s) facing up on
both and made pleats. Wrong sides facing up because when you fold the bodice inward and match up the sides to lace up- the
good side of the panel fabric then faces out (pic 7). I made about 4 pleats going toward the right and 4 toward the left with
the center pleat going both directions evenly. (pic 6) I stitched the panel to the bodice across the top, about 1 1/2" to 2" from
the edge. I also stitched from the top edge beginning at the horizontal stitching and down to where the bodice point ends on
both the left and the right edge( see black markings in pic 6). I did this 4 times over.
Once everything was stitched I pressed and pinned the bottom hemline. About 3" wide. I let the drapery hang a few nights
before finally stitching the hemline. I laced up the bodices with the bronze braid (pic 8). Once all the panels were complete,
I hung them onto a black drapery rod with black clip rings. I had mounted the sheers behind the drapery panels with a
common shirr rod so that they lined up with the tops of the panels (pic 9). The completed panels. Hit the link below titled:
Valance Page to see the instructions for making the Valance.
Making pattern for "Bodices", Making Sheers & Panels.
I did not use any pattern or really anything to make the sheers. All I did was cut the yardage in half, because I knew I wanted
two panels. Then I hemmed them and made the rod pockets. That's it! I didn't even treat the selvage edges because they do
not need anything. I made about a 2 1/2" hem on the bottom of each panel, and I made a 1 1/2 inch hem across the top,
and then folded it over and stitched again to create the pocket for the rod on each panel. I just winged it but if you know a
better way go for it. I hung these on a single traditional shirr rod.
Making the "Bodice":
I made my own pattern for the "bodice" (pic 1) but you could probably use a prefab pattern. It is really a simple pattern to
make and follow. The measurements for the pattern piece I made out of muslin are: 16" across top edge, 14 1/4" on back
edge, 17 3/8" across bottom edge, and 21" across front edge where grommets or eyelets will be placed. With 1" hem
allowances. Grain line vertical in center, and center fold marking on back edge. I made a decision on how I wanted the
bottom edge of the bodice to look, and just made a simple point with a sharp angle. You could make a bodice in any style you
like best. Then I cut my good fabric, to divide it into 4 portions- I folded the width in half and then made four 22 inch long
pieces. I studied the pattern on the fabric. I noticed that I liked the paisley in the pattern pointing upward rather than
downward, so turned the fabric in that direction before I cut. (pic 2) After That I just pressed and stitched the hems
accordingly (pic 3). When I got to the 'points' up front, I had to work at maintaining the integrity of that corner. I folded and
folded until I figured out a way of doing it that it will stay a nice clean point when stitched. If you do yours this way you will
see what I mean. You just have to play with it, folding it under until you do not have bulk, but a nice- almost mitered corner.
Once you have repeated this process 4 times, or as many times as you need to make all the bodices for your windows, settle in
for some grommet or eyelet work. (pics 4-5) I measured 2 1/2" inches down from the top and made the first mark, and then
spaced them every 2" apart. Making 8 grommet marks total. This type of slick fabric is hard to mark- use a water-soluble or
disappearing pen rather than any wax method. I made the holes through and added in the grommets. I used the grommet
pliers to crimp the grommets onto the fabric. If you're making 4 bodices, you'll need 16 grommets or eyelets for each bodice,
a total of 64 just for the panels.
Making The Panels & Attaching Them To The Bodices:
I laid the solid panel fabric out on my cutting table, folding the width in half and began making marks across the fabric for
cutting. I cut four panels, one every 2 1/2 yards. I then pressed the sides over about 2" and stitched them. I didn't fold the
selvage edge in because it looked fine to me. Then I pressed the top edge over about 2", bringing the edge under this time and
then stitched. I laid the bodice out flat on the cutting table like in (pic 3) and brought my panel fabric to it, holding up the
rest of the yardage bulk with the back of my chair. I pinned the panel fabric to the bodice with the wrong side(s) facing up on
both and made pleats. Wrong sides facing up because when you fold the bodice inward and match up the sides to lace up- the
good side of the panel fabric then faces out (pic 7). I made about 4 pleats going toward the right and 4 toward the left with
the center pleat going both directions evenly. (pic 6) I stitched the panel to the bodice across the top, about 1 1/2" to 2" from
the edge. I also stitched from the top edge beginning at the horizontal stitching and down to where the bodice point ends on
both the left and the right edge( see black markings in pic 6). I did this 4 times over.
Once everything was stitched I pressed and pinned the bottom hemline. About 3" wide. I let the drapery hang a few nights
before finally stitching the hemline. I laced up the bodices with the bronze braid (pic 8). Once all the panels were complete,
I hung them onto a black drapery rod with black clip rings. I had mounted the sheers behind the drapery panels with a
common shirr rod so that they lined up with the tops of the panels (pic 9). The completed panels. Hit the link below titled:
Valance Page to see the instructions for making the Valance.
Yardages & Materials Purchased:
I made draperies for three windows (the materials list for the Valance is on that page). I made panels for one pretty standard
size window at 46"x 46" and one odd shaped window at 22"x 46". Adjust this yardage info according to your own windows. Every
time you see a '*' after a price that means I used a 40-50% off coupon in order to get that price, or I got it at a greater than
expected discount. These prices reflect the total price paid for all three windows, not just the panels. In some instances, such as
the valance, I ended up with too much fabric because I didn't know how much I'd really need, use these as only estimated
guidelines please.
1.)Eyelet Pliers for use with both small (3mm) and large (6mm) eyelets $8.24 *
2.)7 Boxes of gold colored eyelets in size Large (6mm)- $2.29 each box, $16.03 total
3.)Black drapery rod rings -2 packets of 10 each $7.99 each total $15.98
4.)1/4" wide braid trim 'Midybraid' color Sienna 7 yards total price $7.67*
5.)5 drapery rods. Two decorative rods, two single traditional shirr rods, and one double traditional shirr rod at a total of
$24.96*
6.)Poly Shantung Fabric in color Spice, to make 4 panels and one valance: $59.94*
Yardages: a.)for panels 10 yards
b.)for valance 2 yards* see notes about this on valance page
7.)Thread: I bought two each (because they were on sale) in colors Café Beige, Rust, and Pongee total $8.94*
8.)Poly Satin Brocade in color Gold Paisley- 3 1/2 yards total $17.49*
Yardages: a.)panels: 2 1/2 yards
b.)valance: 1 yard
9.)Jo-Ann Home Decorator's Fabric: 'Metallic Crunch' in color Gold- 6 yards total $29.97*
Yardages: a.)Panels 5 yards
b.)Valance 1 yard
Total spent for this project (not including taxes or price for blinds) was $189.22
Sources: Eyelets, Pliers, Braid, hook and loop tape and adhesive, Shantung, Thread, Brocade, Crunch: Jo-Ann
Decorative rods: Big Lots
Drapery Rings: Linens-N-Things
Traditional shirr rods: Single: Big Lots, Double: JC Penney
Blinds: Lowes
Books: Amazon.com
Paint: Lowes:
Enterprise 12 Year Interior Latex Satin Wall &Trim (Valspar)
Colors: 264B-2 Melting Sun (walls), and 264B-1 Antique Fresco (trim).
I made draperies for three windows (the materials list for the Valance is on that page). I made panels for one pretty standard
size window at 46"x 46" and one odd shaped window at 22"x 46". Adjust this yardage info according to your own windows. Every
time you see a '*' after a price that means I used a 40-50% off coupon in order to get that price, or I got it at a greater than
expected discount. These prices reflect the total price paid for all three windows, not just the panels. In some instances, such as
the valance, I ended up with too much fabric because I didn't know how much I'd really need, use these as only estimated
guidelines please.
1.)Eyelet Pliers for use with both small (3mm) and large (6mm) eyelets $8.24 *
2.)7 Boxes of gold colored eyelets in size Large (6mm)- $2.29 each box, $16.03 total
3.)Black drapery rod rings -2 packets of 10 each $7.99 each total $15.98
4.)1/4" wide braid trim 'Midybraid' color Sienna 7 yards total price $7.67*
5.)5 drapery rods. Two decorative rods, two single traditional shirr rods, and one double traditional shirr rod at a total of
$24.96*
6.)Poly Shantung Fabric in color Spice, to make 4 panels and one valance: $59.94*
Yardages: a.)for panels 10 yards
b.)for valance 2 yards* see notes about this on valance page
7.)Thread: I bought two each (because they were on sale) in colors Café Beige, Rust, and Pongee total $8.94*
8.)Poly Satin Brocade in color Gold Paisley- 3 1/2 yards total $17.49*
Yardages: a.)panels: 2 1/2 yards
b.)valance: 1 yard
9.)Jo-Ann Home Decorator's Fabric: 'Metallic Crunch' in color Gold- 6 yards total $29.97*
Yardages: a.)Panels 5 yards
b.)Valance 1 yard
Total spent for this project (not including taxes or price for blinds) was $189.22
Sources: Eyelets, Pliers, Braid, hook and loop tape and adhesive, Shantung, Thread, Brocade, Crunch: Jo-Ann
Decorative rods: Big Lots
Drapery Rings: Linens-N-Things
Traditional shirr rods: Single: Big Lots, Double: JC Penney
Blinds: Lowes
Books: Amazon.com
Paint: Lowes:
Enterprise 12 Year Interior Latex Satin Wall &Trim (Valspar)
Colors: 264B-2 Melting Sun (walls), and 264B-1 Antique Fresco (trim).