| Elven Princess Hair, Pendant & Brooch |
The Angel Dress Hairstyle:
While I love and adore beautiful long natural hair on others, I don't think it flatters my face. I wish it did. If you are in the same
situation as I am, when Halloween comes around and your costume calls for long flowing locks you feel left out.
I found an alternative to wearing a full on wig at the local Sally Beauty Supply store. Revlon makes "Quick Clips 2" Ready to wear
hair on a clip. These I like because they are less expensive than a wig (in some cases), and they look more natural to me, blending
in with your own natural hair.
While I wouldn't go out to dinner wearing a wig, I would wearing this, so it isn?t just a one night one-time purchase collecting dust.
It is so easy to put on, and there are many color choices. You can see in the pictures that my natural hair falls just below my
shoulders. When I use the clip, it falls to the middle of my back.
You can get this hair clip for $28.99 USD. My hair is a golden brown color, and I went with the "light brown" version, which is
close. They have the style I picked out which is layered in cut; they have a "shag" style, and a straight style. They also have small
braids that you can slip on like headbands that blend into your hair. They also have funky hair in crazy colors, buns, twists, and
more. Feeling in the mood for long flowing hair, grab your clip and BOOM! Long hair. Too hot for long hair? BOOM! Short hair.
LOL.
The only drawback to wearing this style on a clip is the clip does protrude a bit on your head, just like when you put your hair up.
It is not flat in the back. The synthetic hair is attached to the clip via a snood like net, so it is possible you could carefully remove
it from the clip and use bobby pins.
I have tried this. It does work. (see the picture above for the final look) What I did to create an "Arwen" look for my Halloween
costume this year was: Carefully pull the net off the large clip, and insert small light brown (tortoise color) combs into the net at
the crown, and on the left and right side. I positioned the combs so that when the fall was placed on the back of my crown, they
would grab the hair..it's harder to describe this than to show you. You'll figure it out quick.
Then I parted my hair by lifting up a layer of hair on my crown and clipping it up and out of the way (towards my bangs). Then I
positioned the fall behind that part. Once it was secure, I added a few bobby pins for extra security. Then I let loose my own hair to
cover the fall.
To style my hair like in the "Angel Dress": I parted my hair off center in the front. I pulled back the sides of my own hair about
eyebrow level and secured them in the back center of my head with a couple bobby pins (brown or black depending on your hair
color). I left out some strands on the sides to cover the lines where my latex "pointy ears" blended into my own ears. I had on hand
a beautiful brooch made of silver that I secured onto the netting of the fall, to act as a "barrette" in the back, although it wasn't
necessary- just to cover any visible bobby pins, etc.
I've also styled a wig in the "Chase Scene Style" for a friend, and I can share my tips on styling a wig for the "chase scene" hairstyle
with you, this is posted on my Chase Dress Pages under Accessories, Hairstyle.
Here is probably the best option for this style. Hair extensions. I have found two web sites selling clip on hair extension systems,
like those worn by popular celebrities. You could buy these yourself, and have your hairdresser put them in for you (call or ask for
the fee at your salon) or you could put them on yourself or have someone help you. I have found that the best prices or deal right
now would be found at either of these two online retailers. Try:
1.) Glamour Hair at www.glamourhair.com/
Best deal would be for A.)Product name: Instant hair, Length: 18" or 22", Style: wavy or straight, Product type: clip on extensions
Human Hair. Since this product is human hair it can be curled or heat styled. So even if you buy the straight, you can heat style the
product to be curly/wavy. You cannot heat style synthetic hair. Price: $139.00-$179.00 for the 12 piece sets. I find that the 22" is just
long enough, but the 18" is too short. Take a tape measure for sewing and measure from the base of your scalp to where you want
it to fall and see how many inches that is.
B.)Product Name: Put On Pieces by HairUWear, Length: 16", Style: wavy or straight, Product Type: Clip on extensions synthetic
hair, Price: 10 piece set for $71.40 .
2.)Doctored Locks at http://drlocks.net/
Best Deal would be for A.)Product Name: (Unknown), Length: 18", Style: curly or straight, Product Type: Clip on hair extensions kit
human hair, Price: 7 piece set $74.95
I have emailed both web site customer service departments asking the same question: Do you sell/loan out/credit out COLOR
RINGS. Color rings are a swatch kit of the available colors by that brand and style of extension. If you buy the ring you can match
your own hair color (from the middle to the end, never the root) or find the perfect color. It is very hard to pick colors from the
Internet. I whole-heartedly advise anyone interested in fabrics or anything where you have to pick a color to buy or borrow a swatch
FIRST! Glamour Hair sells color rings, but only for select brands. This is the link to the color ring purchase page:
http://www.glamourhair.com/extensions/colorrings.asp
They charge $29.00 for a color ring. Unfortunately, neither of the least expensive options have color rings for purchase. Doctored
Locks has color rings for sale as well. Again- unfortunately, this is a color ring set only good for Doctored Locks brand hair, in the
type Pre-Bonded. They offer to color match if you send a sample of the hair that you are trying to match.
If you are dead set on wearing a wig, check out these links:
WOW wigs
www.wowwigs.com/
Look for the wig named "LA-3000" this comes in a brown color and is very long and has waves, no bangs. This would be perfect for
the "Angel Dress". The wig runs $57.95 USD and you can see a pic of it above.
Wigs.Net
www.wigs.net/
Long Braid (can be undone for long straight-wavy look):
Long Wavy Fall
Long Wavy Wigs
The Wigs.Net web site has a great many options for you to find out what is the best match to your hair color. They even do a hair
swatch sampler on loan program where you pay for the swatches, then return them within 10 days for a store credit towards the
purchase of the hairpiece! Cool.
Generally, wigs are fuller than a normal head of hair. To remove some of that bulk you can get to your local hairstylist and ask her
or him to texturize it for you. Texturizing is a technique where a special pair of scissors that has teeth to the blades is used to
remove small amounts of hair everywhere in an area where it is used, and this removes bulk. You can also do this for yourself, but
be careful with this. Go slowly checking all along the way that you are not destroying your newly purchased wig.
When I did my friend's wig I just used regular shears and snipped various spots lightly with a feather light touch all around an area
and then stopped and combed out the hair to see how I did, see how much was removed to make sure it looked ok still.
You should not use texturizers on your own hair, my stylist says..She recommends leaving that up to a professional! And I do too ;0)
You can purchase texturizers at Sally Beauty Supply stores, and I saw a pair in the beauty department of Wal-Mart as well! See pic
above for examples.
For styling the wig in the style for the Angel Dress..I suggest checking out the LOTR costume research page for more. It's not a
complicated style at all, just parted off center, long flowing wavy hair no bangs.
I suggest if you are going to style your own wig, buy yourself these accessories to make your life easier:
-Wig Comb or Pic WIDE TOOTH
-Gentle Shampoo to remove any funny wig smells and softens pre-styled hairdos
-Synthetic Hair Conditioner in Spray-On or Soak In form, this will help you detangle after washing.
-Wig Cap or a left over thigh high stocking cut off and tightened with rubber band would do, this keeps all your hair down smooth
and flat so your hair will not make the wig sit on your head funny.
-Styrofoam Head & "Manikin Holder" or glued to weight on bottom. This is a must. I hot glued a Styrofoam head to a glass brick
(used for glass walls) because it can easily be removed later since hot glue doesn't stick forever to glass. The Styrofoam heads have a
hole up the center and there is a device available at Sally Beauty Supply store called: "Manikin Holder" for $6.99 USD. This is a
clamp on the bottom that secures to a table, and a long pole on top that inserts into the styrofoam heads. The pole is adjustable
and can be tightened. See the pic above for example. This is a cool gadjet.
-"T-Pins"..These are long thick straight pins like the ones used for sewing, but instead of small pin heads, the head has a bar across
the top and so the pin looks like the letter "T"-hence the name "T-Pin" LOL..These you can use to pin the wig onto the Styrofoam
head and it will not move.
-Bobby Pins, or Hairpins. In case you need them.
I found "T Pins" at Michael's Craft Store in the Jewelry making area; I found synthetic hair conditioner, wig caps, combs, Styrofoam
heads, and texturizers at Sally Beauty Supply and online at WOW Wigs. The styrofoam heads are only $2.99 USD at Sally, but
$6.95 USD online at WoW Wigs.
While I love and adore beautiful long natural hair on others, I don't think it flatters my face. I wish it did. If you are in the same
situation as I am, when Halloween comes around and your costume calls for long flowing locks you feel left out.
I found an alternative to wearing a full on wig at the local Sally Beauty Supply store. Revlon makes "Quick Clips 2" Ready to wear
hair on a clip. These I like because they are less expensive than a wig (in some cases), and they look more natural to me, blending
in with your own natural hair.
While I wouldn't go out to dinner wearing a wig, I would wearing this, so it isn?t just a one night one-time purchase collecting dust.
It is so easy to put on, and there are many color choices. You can see in the pictures that my natural hair falls just below my
shoulders. When I use the clip, it falls to the middle of my back.
You can get this hair clip for $28.99 USD. My hair is a golden brown color, and I went with the "light brown" version, which is
close. They have the style I picked out which is layered in cut; they have a "shag" style, and a straight style. They also have small
braids that you can slip on like headbands that blend into your hair. They also have funky hair in crazy colors, buns, twists, and
more. Feeling in the mood for long flowing hair, grab your clip and BOOM! Long hair. Too hot for long hair? BOOM! Short hair.
LOL.
The only drawback to wearing this style on a clip is the clip does protrude a bit on your head, just like when you put your hair up.
It is not flat in the back. The synthetic hair is attached to the clip via a snood like net, so it is possible you could carefully remove
it from the clip and use bobby pins.
I have tried this. It does work. (see the picture above for the final look) What I did to create an "Arwen" look for my Halloween
costume this year was: Carefully pull the net off the large clip, and insert small light brown (tortoise color) combs into the net at
the crown, and on the left and right side. I positioned the combs so that when the fall was placed on the back of my crown, they
would grab the hair..it's harder to describe this than to show you. You'll figure it out quick.
Then I parted my hair by lifting up a layer of hair on my crown and clipping it up and out of the way (towards my bangs). Then I
positioned the fall behind that part. Once it was secure, I added a few bobby pins for extra security. Then I let loose my own hair to
cover the fall.
To style my hair like in the "Angel Dress": I parted my hair off center in the front. I pulled back the sides of my own hair about
eyebrow level and secured them in the back center of my head with a couple bobby pins (brown or black depending on your hair
color). I left out some strands on the sides to cover the lines where my latex "pointy ears" blended into my own ears. I had on hand
a beautiful brooch made of silver that I secured onto the netting of the fall, to act as a "barrette" in the back, although it wasn't
necessary- just to cover any visible bobby pins, etc.
I've also styled a wig in the "Chase Scene Style" for a friend, and I can share my tips on styling a wig for the "chase scene" hairstyle
with you, this is posted on my Chase Dress Pages under Accessories, Hairstyle.
Here is probably the best option for this style. Hair extensions. I have found two web sites selling clip on hair extension systems,
like those worn by popular celebrities. You could buy these yourself, and have your hairdresser put them in for you (call or ask for
the fee at your salon) or you could put them on yourself or have someone help you. I have found that the best prices or deal right
now would be found at either of these two online retailers. Try:
1.) Glamour Hair at www.glamourhair.com/
Best deal would be for A.)Product name: Instant hair, Length: 18" or 22", Style: wavy or straight, Product type: clip on extensions
Human Hair. Since this product is human hair it can be curled or heat styled. So even if you buy the straight, you can heat style the
product to be curly/wavy. You cannot heat style synthetic hair. Price: $139.00-$179.00 for the 12 piece sets. I find that the 22" is just
long enough, but the 18" is too short. Take a tape measure for sewing and measure from the base of your scalp to where you want
it to fall and see how many inches that is.
B.)Product Name: Put On Pieces by HairUWear, Length: 16", Style: wavy or straight, Product Type: Clip on extensions synthetic
hair, Price: 10 piece set for $71.40 .
2.)Doctored Locks at http://drlocks.net/
Best Deal would be for A.)Product Name: (Unknown), Length: 18", Style: curly or straight, Product Type: Clip on hair extensions kit
human hair, Price: 7 piece set $74.95
I have emailed both web site customer service departments asking the same question: Do you sell/loan out/credit out COLOR
RINGS. Color rings are a swatch kit of the available colors by that brand and style of extension. If you buy the ring you can match
your own hair color (from the middle to the end, never the root) or find the perfect color. It is very hard to pick colors from the
Internet. I whole-heartedly advise anyone interested in fabrics or anything where you have to pick a color to buy or borrow a swatch
FIRST! Glamour Hair sells color rings, but only for select brands. This is the link to the color ring purchase page:
http://www.glamourhair.com/extensions/colorrings.asp
They charge $29.00 for a color ring. Unfortunately, neither of the least expensive options have color rings for purchase. Doctored
Locks has color rings for sale as well. Again- unfortunately, this is a color ring set only good for Doctored Locks brand hair, in the
type Pre-Bonded. They offer to color match if you send a sample of the hair that you are trying to match.
If you are dead set on wearing a wig, check out these links:
WOW wigs
www.wowwigs.com/
Look for the wig named "LA-3000" this comes in a brown color and is very long and has waves, no bangs. This would be perfect for
the "Angel Dress". The wig runs $57.95 USD and you can see a pic of it above.
Wigs.Net
www.wigs.net/
Long Braid (can be undone for long straight-wavy look):
Long Wavy Fall
Long Wavy Wigs
The Wigs.Net web site has a great many options for you to find out what is the best match to your hair color. They even do a hair
swatch sampler on loan program where you pay for the swatches, then return them within 10 days for a store credit towards the
purchase of the hairpiece! Cool.
Generally, wigs are fuller than a normal head of hair. To remove some of that bulk you can get to your local hairstylist and ask her
or him to texturize it for you. Texturizing is a technique where a special pair of scissors that has teeth to the blades is used to
remove small amounts of hair everywhere in an area where it is used, and this removes bulk. You can also do this for yourself, but
be careful with this. Go slowly checking all along the way that you are not destroying your newly purchased wig.
When I did my friend's wig I just used regular shears and snipped various spots lightly with a feather light touch all around an area
and then stopped and combed out the hair to see how I did, see how much was removed to make sure it looked ok still.
You should not use texturizers on your own hair, my stylist says..She recommends leaving that up to a professional! And I do too ;0)
You can purchase texturizers at Sally Beauty Supply stores, and I saw a pair in the beauty department of Wal-Mart as well! See pic
above for examples.
For styling the wig in the style for the Angel Dress..I suggest checking out the LOTR costume research page for more. It's not a
complicated style at all, just parted off center, long flowing wavy hair no bangs.
I suggest if you are going to style your own wig, buy yourself these accessories to make your life easier:
-Wig Comb or Pic WIDE TOOTH
-Gentle Shampoo to remove any funny wig smells and softens pre-styled hairdos
-Synthetic Hair Conditioner in Spray-On or Soak In form, this will help you detangle after washing.
-Wig Cap or a left over thigh high stocking cut off and tightened with rubber band would do, this keeps all your hair down smooth
and flat so your hair will not make the wig sit on your head funny.
-Styrofoam Head & "Manikin Holder" or glued to weight on bottom. This is a must. I hot glued a Styrofoam head to a glass brick
(used for glass walls) because it can easily be removed later since hot glue doesn't stick forever to glass. The Styrofoam heads have a
hole up the center and there is a device available at Sally Beauty Supply store called: "Manikin Holder" for $6.99 USD. This is a
clamp on the bottom that secures to a table, and a long pole on top that inserts into the styrofoam heads. The pole is adjustable
and can be tightened. See the pic above for example. This is a cool gadjet.
-"T-Pins"..These are long thick straight pins like the ones used for sewing, but instead of small pin heads, the head has a bar across
the top and so the pin looks like the letter "T"-hence the name "T-Pin" LOL..These you can use to pin the wig onto the Styrofoam
head and it will not move.
-Bobby Pins, or Hairpins. In case you need them.
I found "T Pins" at Michael's Craft Store in the Jewelry making area; I found synthetic hair conditioner, wig caps, combs, Styrofoam
heads, and texturizers at Sally Beauty Supply and online at WOW Wigs. The styrofoam heads are only $2.99 USD at Sally, but
$6.95 USD online at WoW Wigs.
How I Made My Own Pendant & Brooch
My version may cost more than $7.99 USD, but it at least it is accessible to nearly everyone.
My version of the elven brooch and elven pendant are shown above.
What you'll need:
*1 square block of polymer clay in pearlescent white or a light color. (I used Primo Sculpey Clay)One block has 4 sections, and
1/2 of one section makes a pendant, just about. So only one package will make both the pendant and the brooch just fine.
*1 double-ended stylus tool (It has a tiny knob on one end and a bit larger knob on the other end)
*One small rolling tool, or a rolling pin that is small (see pic)
*1 bottle "Original Tacky Glue" or any glue that dries CLEAR.
*1 bag clear teardrop or elongated diamond shape "rhinestone"
gems with flat backs (you'll need 7 for the piece)
*1 bottle Tempura Paint in metallic shiny silver and pearlescent shimmering white.
*2 small paintbrushes, one with a blunt tip, and one with a sharp pointed end.
*1 bottle Sculpey Glaze in GLOSS (for a shinier finish)
*Parchment paper, brown paper bag, or craft paper to cover your work surface
*An oven
*If you aren't an adult, PLEASE make this project with your parents*
*A baking sheet
*Silver jewelry wire in 24 gauge.
*1 bag clear crystal beads (try for some with a slight iridescent glow to them)
*Wire cutters
*One bag of pin backs with the twist closure (to glue onto brooch)
*Two bottles of "Delta Paint Jewels" one in the color Emerald (green), one in the color Citrine Yellow
SEE PIC FOR CLOSE-UP ON PRODUCTS.
Technique for the Pendant:
First I laid down some parchment paper on my table, because that's what I had on hand, but you could use a brown paper bag or
craft paper to cover your work surface.
Then I pulled off one portion of the block of clay and kneaded it until soft and pliable in my hands. I only used about 1/2 of one
portion of the block, so you could make tons of these with one block! Then I pressed it flat on my work surface, first with my
hands then with the rolling tool my husband just happened to have on hand (I think ours is for putting screening material into
screen doors and windows). I have seen these available in quilting supply stores sold as "Seam Rollers".
I wanted a thin base, because I didn't want the piece to be bulky or heavy at all. When it was in good shape, I cut out a "V" shape
as the base. I placed the 7 gems in formation on the "V" shape to get an idea if the base would be large enough. Then I went to
work with my stylus tool. I was making this with my laptop propped up on my table with the large image I downloaded from the
Noble Collection web site, but you could do it from memory or by printing the image out with your printer.
I decided the base was supposed to be similar to wings. So I used the small end of the stylus to carve a vein through the center of
both sides of the "V", and then used the larger end of the stylus to make the rest of the details. I smoothed out any rough parts with
the stylus and my fingers and removed all little balls of clay as I worked. I did the same on both sides.
Then I made the lower area, and to me it looked like this was supposed to be similar to Laurel leaves. I did about the same job on
the lower area as I did on the top. I cut out two separate thin "V" shaped portions, carved them with the design. I pressed top and
bottom areas together IN THE BACK SIDE so that you wouldn't see the seams from the front.
Then I made a very long roll of clay with my hand. By rolling my hand back and forth in an outward or inward direction on top of
the clay as it lay on the work surface, it creates a long thin tube or noodle like piece. Just keep working it until it is the thickness
and length you want. I would recommend doing the rope like overlay in one piece, rather than in two pieces causing a seam, like I
have..but I think it looks ok. I figured out where to place the "rope" by looking at the image taking care to see where and what
direction the overlap is on the original.
Then I baked the piece. My oven was being flaky, and I originally had the piece on a non-stick sheet, but it just wasn't getting hard.
I transferred it to a regular sheet and it was better so I recommend to you, do not use a non-stick sheet as this interfered with my
process.
Once it was fully cooled I painted a combination of silver & pearlescent white craft paints (a ratio of more white than silver gives
it a prettier color) onto the piece.
Once the piece was fully dry I painted on the Gloss to seal it. Then I glued on the jewels. I originally bought "rub-n-buff" Silver leaf
product thinking it would be better than paint. I don't recommend this because it is a waxy product and continually rubs off onto
you even when dry. I recommend painting it..
When the glue was clear, and set up I pulled out the beads to pick out the right one for my pendant. I bought a bag of mixed beads
in different sizes. Then I cut off a 6" length of wire. I put one end under the top of the pendant and made a loop. Then I threaded
the bead down both pieces of the wire as far as it would go close to the pendant. One piece I cut short, and turned inward towards
the bead and tucked into the opening of the bead, leaving a tiny loop. Then I took the other piece and cut it a bit longer than the
other. I made a large loop with this and tucked it into the opening of the bead, making a loop to slip a chain through.
You could wear your Pendant on a cord, on a chain, or anything you want to.
~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~
Technique for the Brooch:
I pulled off one portion of the block of clay and kneaded it until soft
and pliable in my hands. I only used about 1/2 of one portion of the block, so you could make tons of these with one block! Then
I pressed it flat on my work surface, first with my hands then with the rolling tool. When it was in good shape, I cut out a leaf
shape by looking at the large image available for download off of the Noble Collection web site. I tried to capture the shape as
much as possible.
Then I went to work with my stylus tool. You could do this from memory or by printing the image out with your printer too. With
my stylus tool, I made the major veins of the leaf, then following the image, the minor veins. I smoothed out any rough parts with
the stylus and my fingers and removed all little balls of clay as I worked. I made the details of texture that I saw in the photograph,
there seems to be some texture underneath the enamel that comes all the way through it, so I textured the piece in between the
major "veins" for that look.
Then I made a long rope with the clay. By rolling my hand back and forth in an outward or inward direction on top of the clay as
it lay on the work surface, it creates a long thin tube or noodle like piece. Just keep working it until it is the thickness and length
you want. I figured out where to place the "stems/vines" by looking at the image taking care to see where and what direction the
overlap is on the original. The trickiest part is near the leaf top. The best way to accomplish this part is to a.)press in place the
thin vine that goes from one side to the other on the INNER leaf top points, b.)then press in place the thin vine that goes from
the one side to the other on the OUTER leaf top points, c.)THEN make the thicker "stem/vine" of the leaf that wraps around the
two in a loop. If you try to make these parts in reverse, it is way too hard to get the other two pieces to pass through the loop and
you'll end up stretching it out of shape. This is so much easier to show that to type.
Once everything is in place, I used the one end of the stylus tool to smooth the ends of the vines into the BACKSIDE of the leaf
so that you will not see the seams in front. I also texturized the vines that wrap around the leaf, I noticed that (perhaps just by the
material the original piece is made of and the technique the craftsperson used) it has nicks and texture to it, so I used the stylus to
"distresss it" sort of, making little marks, etc. Then I baked the piece.
Once it was fully cooled I painted the combination of pearlescent white and silver craft paint (a ratio of more white than silver
looks best) onto the piece. I painted on the silver all over the piece first because, and then when you apply the green and yellow,
the parts you want to be silver, will already be that color! And the silver under the transparent paint is a nice look.
Once the piece was fully dry I painted on the green "Jewel Paint" with a paintbrush that has a very sharp point to it. The reason I
recommend the "Jewel Paint" is because when it dries, it is semi-transparent. This lets the texture and some of the silver
underneath show through, and really gives it an "enameled" look! I tried to capture some of this with the camera but you can't see
it as well as I hoped.
When the green paint was still a bit wet (when it is hardening it becomes quite tacky and sticky) I dipped the tip of the brush into
the yellow and swirled it in with the wet green areas to give the piece more depth, like the enameled one.
Just be careful that you do not over do it on the "Jewel Paint" because it is quite runny, it comes out of the bottle through a hole in
the tip, but it will spread too much if you do it this way. You need to watch how much to put on the piece, because it will spread
out all over the place getting into the "veins" where you want to keep it silver colored. To avoid this, use it sparingly, carefully, with
the tip of the brush, just placing it down in dabs on the spots you want green, then watch to see how much it will spread out.
Then do the same with the yellow, just use even less.
Then I went over the entire piece with the gloss when it was fully dry, to make it even more enameled in look, like the original.
And to seal in the jewel paint. Then I glued on the pin back. Make sure you get some glue coming up through the holes in the
metal pin back so you know the pin back is fused good and tight with the glue.
Now you too can belong to the Fellowship, and go off on your own adventure! Pin your brooch to your favorite top or use it as a
clasp for your favorite cloak. This makes a GREAT gift for all your friends and anyone who is a fan of the film.
I had most of these materials on hand because of making my own Pendant. I spent about $30.00 USD for the Pendant materials,
including mistakes. It is really affordable to do it this way. If you don't feel confident enough to do this yourself, hit up that friend
you know who is creative and buy them lunch if they'll make it for you! ;0)
All these items can be found around the house, craft stores such as Michael's Arts and Crafts, and hobby shops.
If you want to learn more techniques for using Sculpey clay or polymer clay check Amazon.com or your favorite online or local
retail store for these book titles:
-The Polymer Clay Techniques Book
-Polymer: The Chameleon Clay
My version may cost more than $7.99 USD, but it at least it is accessible to nearly everyone.
My version of the elven brooch and elven pendant are shown above.
What you'll need:
*1 square block of polymer clay in pearlescent white or a light color. (I used Primo Sculpey Clay)One block has 4 sections, and
1/2 of one section makes a pendant, just about. So only one package will make both the pendant and the brooch just fine.
*1 double-ended stylus tool (It has a tiny knob on one end and a bit larger knob on the other end)
*One small rolling tool, or a rolling pin that is small (see pic)
*1 bottle "Original Tacky Glue" or any glue that dries CLEAR.
*1 bag clear teardrop or elongated diamond shape "rhinestone"
gems with flat backs (you'll need 7 for the piece)
*1 bottle Tempura Paint in metallic shiny silver and pearlescent shimmering white.
*2 small paintbrushes, one with a blunt tip, and one with a sharp pointed end.
*1 bottle Sculpey Glaze in GLOSS (for a shinier finish)
*Parchment paper, brown paper bag, or craft paper to cover your work surface
*An oven
*If you aren't an adult, PLEASE make this project with your parents*
*A baking sheet
*Silver jewelry wire in 24 gauge.
*1 bag clear crystal beads (try for some with a slight iridescent glow to them)
*Wire cutters
*One bag of pin backs with the twist closure (to glue onto brooch)
*Two bottles of "Delta Paint Jewels" one in the color Emerald (green), one in the color Citrine Yellow
SEE PIC FOR CLOSE-UP ON PRODUCTS.
Technique for the Pendant:
First I laid down some parchment paper on my table, because that's what I had on hand, but you could use a brown paper bag or
craft paper to cover your work surface.
Then I pulled off one portion of the block of clay and kneaded it until soft and pliable in my hands. I only used about 1/2 of one
portion of the block, so you could make tons of these with one block! Then I pressed it flat on my work surface, first with my
hands then with the rolling tool my husband just happened to have on hand (I think ours is for putting screening material into
screen doors and windows). I have seen these available in quilting supply stores sold as "Seam Rollers".
I wanted a thin base, because I didn't want the piece to be bulky or heavy at all. When it was in good shape, I cut out a "V" shape
as the base. I placed the 7 gems in formation on the "V" shape to get an idea if the base would be large enough. Then I went to
work with my stylus tool. I was making this with my laptop propped up on my table with the large image I downloaded from the
Noble Collection web site, but you could do it from memory or by printing the image out with your printer.
I decided the base was supposed to be similar to wings. So I used the small end of the stylus to carve a vein through the center of
both sides of the "V", and then used the larger end of the stylus to make the rest of the details. I smoothed out any rough parts with
the stylus and my fingers and removed all little balls of clay as I worked. I did the same on both sides.
Then I made the lower area, and to me it looked like this was supposed to be similar to Laurel leaves. I did about the same job on
the lower area as I did on the top. I cut out two separate thin "V" shaped portions, carved them with the design. I pressed top and
bottom areas together IN THE BACK SIDE so that you wouldn't see the seams from the front.
Then I made a very long roll of clay with my hand. By rolling my hand back and forth in an outward or inward direction on top of
the clay as it lay on the work surface, it creates a long thin tube or noodle like piece. Just keep working it until it is the thickness
and length you want. I would recommend doing the rope like overlay in one piece, rather than in two pieces causing a seam, like I
have..but I think it looks ok. I figured out where to place the "rope" by looking at the image taking care to see where and what
direction the overlap is on the original.
Then I baked the piece. My oven was being flaky, and I originally had the piece on a non-stick sheet, but it just wasn't getting hard.
I transferred it to a regular sheet and it was better so I recommend to you, do not use a non-stick sheet as this interfered with my
process.
Once it was fully cooled I painted a combination of silver & pearlescent white craft paints (a ratio of more white than silver gives
it a prettier color) onto the piece.
Once the piece was fully dry I painted on the Gloss to seal it. Then I glued on the jewels. I originally bought "rub-n-buff" Silver leaf
product thinking it would be better than paint. I don't recommend this because it is a waxy product and continually rubs off onto
you even when dry. I recommend painting it..
When the glue was clear, and set up I pulled out the beads to pick out the right one for my pendant. I bought a bag of mixed beads
in different sizes. Then I cut off a 6" length of wire. I put one end under the top of the pendant and made a loop. Then I threaded
the bead down both pieces of the wire as far as it would go close to the pendant. One piece I cut short, and turned inward towards
the bead and tucked into the opening of the bead, leaving a tiny loop. Then I took the other piece and cut it a bit longer than the
other. I made a large loop with this and tucked it into the opening of the bead, making a loop to slip a chain through.
You could wear your Pendant on a cord, on a chain, or anything you want to.
~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~.~
Technique for the Brooch:
I pulled off one portion of the block of clay and kneaded it until soft
and pliable in my hands. I only used about 1/2 of one portion of the block, so you could make tons of these with one block! Then
I pressed it flat on my work surface, first with my hands then with the rolling tool. When it was in good shape, I cut out a leaf
shape by looking at the large image available for download off of the Noble Collection web site. I tried to capture the shape as
much as possible.
Then I went to work with my stylus tool. You could do this from memory or by printing the image out with your printer too. With
my stylus tool, I made the major veins of the leaf, then following the image, the minor veins. I smoothed out any rough parts with
the stylus and my fingers and removed all little balls of clay as I worked. I made the details of texture that I saw in the photograph,
there seems to be some texture underneath the enamel that comes all the way through it, so I textured the piece in between the
major "veins" for that look.
Then I made a long rope with the clay. By rolling my hand back and forth in an outward or inward direction on top of the clay as
it lay on the work surface, it creates a long thin tube or noodle like piece. Just keep working it until it is the thickness and length
you want. I figured out where to place the "stems/vines" by looking at the image taking care to see where and what direction the
overlap is on the original. The trickiest part is near the leaf top. The best way to accomplish this part is to a.)press in place the
thin vine that goes from one side to the other on the INNER leaf top points, b.)then press in place the thin vine that goes from
the one side to the other on the OUTER leaf top points, c.)THEN make the thicker "stem/vine" of the leaf that wraps around the
two in a loop. If you try to make these parts in reverse, it is way too hard to get the other two pieces to pass through the loop and
you'll end up stretching it out of shape. This is so much easier to show that to type.
Once everything is in place, I used the one end of the stylus tool to smooth the ends of the vines into the BACKSIDE of the leaf
so that you will not see the seams in front. I also texturized the vines that wrap around the leaf, I noticed that (perhaps just by the
material the original piece is made of and the technique the craftsperson used) it has nicks and texture to it, so I used the stylus to
"distresss it" sort of, making little marks, etc. Then I baked the piece.
Once it was fully cooled I painted the combination of pearlescent white and silver craft paint (a ratio of more white than silver
looks best) onto the piece. I painted on the silver all over the piece first because, and then when you apply the green and yellow,
the parts you want to be silver, will already be that color! And the silver under the transparent paint is a nice look.
Once the piece was fully dry I painted on the green "Jewel Paint" with a paintbrush that has a very sharp point to it. The reason I
recommend the "Jewel Paint" is because when it dries, it is semi-transparent. This lets the texture and some of the silver
underneath show through, and really gives it an "enameled" look! I tried to capture some of this with the camera but you can't see
it as well as I hoped.
When the green paint was still a bit wet (when it is hardening it becomes quite tacky and sticky) I dipped the tip of the brush into
the yellow and swirled it in with the wet green areas to give the piece more depth, like the enameled one.
Just be careful that you do not over do it on the "Jewel Paint" because it is quite runny, it comes out of the bottle through a hole in
the tip, but it will spread too much if you do it this way. You need to watch how much to put on the piece, because it will spread
out all over the place getting into the "veins" where you want to keep it silver colored. To avoid this, use it sparingly, carefully, with
the tip of the brush, just placing it down in dabs on the spots you want green, then watch to see how much it will spread out.
Then do the same with the yellow, just use even less.
Then I went over the entire piece with the gloss when it was fully dry, to make it even more enameled in look, like the original.
And to seal in the jewel paint. Then I glued on the pin back. Make sure you get some glue coming up through the holes in the
metal pin back so you know the pin back is fused good and tight with the glue.
Now you too can belong to the Fellowship, and go off on your own adventure! Pin your brooch to your favorite top or use it as a
clasp for your favorite cloak. This makes a GREAT gift for all your friends and anyone who is a fan of the film.
I had most of these materials on hand because of making my own Pendant. I spent about $30.00 USD for the Pendant materials,
including mistakes. It is really affordable to do it this way. If you don't feel confident enough to do this yourself, hit up that friend
you know who is creative and buy them lunch if they'll make it for you! ;0)
All these items can be found around the house, craft stores such as Michael's Arts and Crafts, and hobby shops.
If you want to learn more techniques for using Sculpey clay or polymer clay check Amazon.com or your favorite online or local
retail store for these book titles:
-The Polymer Clay Techniques Book
-Polymer: The Chameleon Clay