| Fairy Costume For Petite Plus Size Woman |
Here I share with you how I made a petite plus sized fairy costume for my friend.
Patterns Used: For the Corset Top: Simplicity 7009 (size16-18-20 sized up from 20 to 22), and for the skirts (inner and
outer): McCall's 4474 (size 20-22-24) *NOTE: THIS SKIRT PATTERN CONSISTENTLY RUNS TOO LARGE ON THE WAIST,
I'VE MADE THIS ONE FOUR TIMES NOW AND ALL WERE TOO BIG AT THE WAIST.*
When doing research for this costume, trying to find larger sized patterns for this design I had a hard time finding a corset
top/bustier pattern for larger sizes. The only other pattern I came across is now OOP from Simplicity, pattern 5009 Junior
Plus sizes are 23/24-31/32. This may or may not work for you. If anyone finds or knows of more large size bustier or
corset top patterns please email me at the email link on my cinema-fantasy web page. I'd like to add more plus sized corset
top patterns here! For the skirts, the pattern I used here also comes in size 26-32W.
The Concept: This came about because of the Barbie "Fairytopia: Mermaidia" movie in which a character named "Azura"
appears. My good friend wanted to make her daughter happy by dressing like Azura from the movie this Halloween. I think
it's just an excuse for her to play ballerina fairy dress up all over again- lol!! She knows it too! I designed a costume for her
(shown in the drawing above) based on the brief moments I watched the Fairytopia film.
Making It:
I started with Simplicity 7009 and I sized it up from a 20 to a 22. I had purchased a design curve prior to starting the
project. You should really have one of these on hand if you want to play around with patterns. Very helpful for joining
curved lines when you are sizing up a pattern. The only other change I made to the pattern was that I took the top band
pattern from view (b) and turned it into a triangle design. This was very easy to do. I just took the pattern and traced it so
that I wouldn't destroy the original one. I made it longer so that it would fit the larger bodice I just made. Then I folded it in
half. I then cut out several triangles on the folded edge. When you open up the pattern again, it looks like a diamond
pattern was cut into the center of the band. When I cut out the fabric I opened it up, and pinned it on the fabric flat, to cut
out the whole shape. Then I folded the fabric in half and cut the triangles on the fold edge. When I sewed the band up I
folded the pieces right sides together, I began to stitch from the top left corner in a big zig-zag direction following the
triangles about 1/4" away from the cut edges, picoting at the points and continuing on to the next triangle. See pic below
for diagram. I must say, I have never worked with a foil spandex fabric before and it was a bit like sewing on a bar of soap,
slippery like nothing else. I thought velvet was bad. Not as bad as this is. I 100% recommend using fusible interfacing on
these types of fabrics! Makes a world of difference. Pin them well, and baste for sure. For the bodice panels I used a
polyester silkessence in turquoise blue. Everything I bought was purchased with the 40-50% off coupons at the local
Jo-Ann's Fabrics & Crafts store. I used a white 1/8" rattail cording for the back laces. I used the corset lace shrink tubing
on the cording to make it easier to lace. You can get the shrink tubing at a millinery supply house, or at Farthingales. I used
my heat gun to shrink them. I noticed the heat gun WILL singe the cording like a toasted marshmallow if not careful. After
the corset was complete, I tacked down by hand each triangle.
Patterns Used: For the Corset Top: Simplicity 7009 (size16-18-20 sized up from 20 to 22), and for the skirts (inner and
outer): McCall's 4474 (size 20-22-24) *NOTE: THIS SKIRT PATTERN CONSISTENTLY RUNS TOO LARGE ON THE WAIST,
I'VE MADE THIS ONE FOUR TIMES NOW AND ALL WERE TOO BIG AT THE WAIST.*
When doing research for this costume, trying to find larger sized patterns for this design I had a hard time finding a corset
top/bustier pattern for larger sizes. The only other pattern I came across is now OOP from Simplicity, pattern 5009 Junior
Plus sizes are 23/24-31/32. This may or may not work for you. If anyone finds or knows of more large size bustier or
corset top patterns please email me at the email link on my cinema-fantasy web page. I'd like to add more plus sized corset
top patterns here! For the skirts, the pattern I used here also comes in size 26-32W.
The Concept: This came about because of the Barbie "Fairytopia: Mermaidia" movie in which a character named "Azura"
appears. My good friend wanted to make her daughter happy by dressing like Azura from the movie this Halloween. I think
it's just an excuse for her to play ballerina fairy dress up all over again- lol!! She knows it too! I designed a costume for her
(shown in the drawing above) based on the brief moments I watched the Fairytopia film.
Making It:
I started with Simplicity 7009 and I sized it up from a 20 to a 22. I had purchased a design curve prior to starting the
project. You should really have one of these on hand if you want to play around with patterns. Very helpful for joining
curved lines when you are sizing up a pattern. The only other change I made to the pattern was that I took the top band
pattern from view (b) and turned it into a triangle design. This was very easy to do. I just took the pattern and traced it so
that I wouldn't destroy the original one. I made it longer so that it would fit the larger bodice I just made. Then I folded it in
half. I then cut out several triangles on the folded edge. When you open up the pattern again, it looks like a diamond
pattern was cut into the center of the band. When I cut out the fabric I opened it up, and pinned it on the fabric flat, to cut
out the whole shape. Then I folded the fabric in half and cut the triangles on the fold edge. When I sewed the band up I
folded the pieces right sides together, I began to stitch from the top left corner in a big zig-zag direction following the
triangles about 1/4" away from the cut edges, picoting at the points and continuing on to the next triangle. See pic below
for diagram. I must say, I have never worked with a foil spandex fabric before and it was a bit like sewing on a bar of soap,
slippery like nothing else. I thought velvet was bad. Not as bad as this is. I 100% recommend using fusible interfacing on
these types of fabrics! Makes a world of difference. Pin them well, and baste for sure. For the bodice panels I used a
polyester silkessence in turquoise blue. Everything I bought was purchased with the 40-50% off coupons at the local
Jo-Ann's Fabrics & Crafts store. I used a white 1/8" rattail cording for the back laces. I used the corset lace shrink tubing
on the cording to make it easier to lace. You can get the shrink tubing at a millinery supply house, or at Farthingales. I used
my heat gun to shrink them. I noticed the heat gun WILL singe the cording like a toasted marshmallow if not careful. After
the corset was complete, I tacked down by hand each triangle.
For the skirts:
My girlfriend is all of 4' 9" tall. =0) so all the skirt pattern pieces were cut on the "petite" lines.
I used McCall's 4474, I was comfortable using the pattern because I used this pattern for the Gypsy Peasant costume I
made. This time I made the outer skirts like flower petals. I made the outer skirt out of polyester Organza or Costal Crepon
Sheer from Jo-Ann's in a light baby blue color. I traced off the skirt pattern so that I would not damage the original. Then I
cut away a large curve on each skirt panel piece at the hem (see pic below). Using the design curve here again really helped. I
took each skirt piece and ran it through my serger on a narrow rolled hem. I did the rolled hem from the top left corner all
the way around the curved hem and up the right side. Hemming the entire piece. I decided to sew the panels together from
the waist to the knee, and leave the panels open from the knee to the hem. Giving it a petal like flow when she walks. I was
forced to re-think the waist band and back elastic on this one. The original instructions use a front waistband, and a back
elastic. You cannot expect this type of fabric to stretch. PERIOD. It will not. So there was not enough give in the back and
side back pieces to work the necessary length of elastic into the casing, therefore it came out too small on the hip and waist
the first time I made it because I wasn't paying enough attention to what was happening. =0( Ultimately, I decided to serge
the pieces together. I left one of the side seams open 3-4 inches from the waist. I made a casing all the way around the
waist instead of what the pattern called for, and I left one of the side seams open about 3-4 inches to allow for the white
1/8" rattail cording to come through the casing. Now it is worn as an apron. Tie at the side or back. I put the shrink tubing
on the rattail again.
The fabric I used disintegrates easily, very crisp, very fine. I recommend using a serger to do the seams and hemming this
type of material with special hems like a rolled hem. I also recommend that you not use this type of material on an item which
will take repeated stress--and I know that I just did that by making this skirt! LOL! But I'm telling you, the fabric just can't
take seam stress and will pull apart on you easily if you do not 1.)French seam it, 2.) or serge it, or 3.)something like that. I
learned allot from playing with this fabric. I had never used it before. This outer skirt went through 4 total rebuilds before it
was finished. Mostly due to error on my part. But there it stands! =0)) I was determined to make this skirt happen! I wasn't
giving up. And BOY did it school me..slapped my wrists something hard! LOL!
My girlfriend is all of 4' 9" tall. =0) so all the skirt pattern pieces were cut on the "petite" lines.
I used McCall's 4474, I was comfortable using the pattern because I used this pattern for the Gypsy Peasant costume I
made. This time I made the outer skirts like flower petals. I made the outer skirt out of polyester Organza or Costal Crepon
Sheer from Jo-Ann's in a light baby blue color. I traced off the skirt pattern so that I would not damage the original. Then I
cut away a large curve on each skirt panel piece at the hem (see pic below). Using the design curve here again really helped. I
took each skirt piece and ran it through my serger on a narrow rolled hem. I did the rolled hem from the top left corner all
the way around the curved hem and up the right side. Hemming the entire piece. I decided to sew the panels together from
the waist to the knee, and leave the panels open from the knee to the hem. Giving it a petal like flow when she walks. I was
forced to re-think the waist band and back elastic on this one. The original instructions use a front waistband, and a back
elastic. You cannot expect this type of fabric to stretch. PERIOD. It will not. So there was not enough give in the back and
side back pieces to work the necessary length of elastic into the casing, therefore it came out too small on the hip and waist
the first time I made it because I wasn't paying enough attention to what was happening. =0( Ultimately, I decided to serge
the pieces together. I left one of the side seams open 3-4 inches from the waist. I made a casing all the way around the
waist instead of what the pattern called for, and I left one of the side seams open about 3-4 inches to allow for the white
1/8" rattail cording to come through the casing. Now it is worn as an apron. Tie at the side or back. I put the shrink tubing
on the rattail again.
The fabric I used disintegrates easily, very crisp, very fine. I recommend using a serger to do the seams and hemming this
type of material with special hems like a rolled hem. I also recommend that you not use this type of material on an item which
will take repeated stress--and I know that I just did that by making this skirt! LOL! But I'm telling you, the fabric just can't
take seam stress and will pull apart on you easily if you do not 1.)French seam it, 2.) or serge it, or 3.)something like that. I
learned allot from playing with this fabric. I had never used it before. This outer skirt went through 4 total rebuilds before it
was finished. Mostly due to error on my part. But there it stands! =0)) I was determined to make this skirt happen! I wasn't
giving up. And BOY did it school me..slapped my wrists something hard! LOL!
The Inner Skirt:
I made the inner skirt out of the same polyester fashion fabric that I made the corset top out of. I made the inner skirt
exactly as the pattern dictated for view (b) I think without any real alteration other than for petite scale. See pics of the
finished under skirt below. You'll notice that the panel seams have a slightly gathered appearance to them. This is what
happens when your serger thread tension is too tight for the fabric you're using and you don't realize it until you're done.
=0( At least you will not see it with the over skirt on.
I made the inner skirt out of the same polyester fashion fabric that I made the corset top out of. I made the inner skirt
exactly as the pattern dictated for view (b) I think without any real alteration other than for petite scale. See pics of the
finished under skirt below. You'll notice that the panel seams have a slightly gathered appearance to them. This is what
happens when your serger thread tension is too tight for the fabric you're using and you don't realize it until you're done.
=0( At least you will not see it with the over skirt on.
| Altered Band Pattern for View B |
| The Corset Top Nearly Finished |
| Altered Pattern |
| Serged with Rolled Hem |
| Finished it! |
I want to also recommend a nifty little device called the "Bob n' Serge". You can buy one here: Clotilde. The Bob n' Serge is
great! I load up three or four sewing machine bobbins with the color of thread I am using, winding the bobbins on my
sewing machine. Then I load the bobbins into the little plastic box. You then place the box onto one of the serger thread
spool pins and then thread your machine. Why I think it is so great is the fact that I do not have the space to store all
those huge thread cones, I already have a "wall o' thread" in every color imaginable..I really did not like the idea that I
needed another "wall-o-thread" made out of thread cones. I do many small projects with the doll costuming I do, and I was
looking for a way to be able to serge small projects without having to buy bulk thread (not counting white or black- those I
buy in cones). Totally cool to me. The only drawback I see is that when the thread spools run out, you have to re-thread
your machine after you've filled it back up. The thread spools for bobbins do not hold very much. I got through serging all
6 panels with a fine rolled hem and when I looked down, one of the spools was empty. You might encounter mulitple
re-threads and re-fills in the process if you're doing something bigger than doll clothing or short small projects- therefore
the cones are better for you. If you're going to be using the Bob-n-Serge, buy extra thread spools. I can't count how many
times I didn't buy enough thread and when I went back for more my color was gone.
Accessories:
The final accessories were purchased:
Adult fairy wings $10.99 at Buy Costumes.
Turquoise Blue Plus Sized Tights $9.00 at We Love Colors
We Love Colors was GREAT! Tights came really fast, and I was impressed with the fact that they carried so many options
for plus sized women! You should go check their site out! I know she'll have some issues with the length on the tights but
the 2x size will fit her hip and waist size perfectly.
Total spent to make this costume: $74.00. USD I used my 50% off coupons, my 40% off coupons on fabric.
great! I load up three or four sewing machine bobbins with the color of thread I am using, winding the bobbins on my
sewing machine. Then I load the bobbins into the little plastic box. You then place the box onto one of the serger thread
spool pins and then thread your machine. Why I think it is so great is the fact that I do not have the space to store all
those huge thread cones, I already have a "wall o' thread" in every color imaginable..I really did not like the idea that I
needed another "wall-o-thread" made out of thread cones. I do many small projects with the doll costuming I do, and I was
looking for a way to be able to serge small projects without having to buy bulk thread (not counting white or black- those I
buy in cones). Totally cool to me. The only drawback I see is that when the thread spools run out, you have to re-thread
your machine after you've filled it back up. The thread spools for bobbins do not hold very much. I got through serging all
6 panels with a fine rolled hem and when I looked down, one of the spools was empty. You might encounter mulitple
re-threads and re-fills in the process if you're doing something bigger than doll clothing or short small projects- therefore
the cones are better for you. If you're going to be using the Bob-n-Serge, buy extra thread spools. I can't count how many
times I didn't buy enough thread and when I went back for more my color was gone.
Accessories:
The final accessories were purchased:
Adult fairy wings $10.99 at Buy Costumes.
Turquoise Blue Plus Sized Tights $9.00 at We Love Colors
We Love Colors was GREAT! Tights came really fast, and I was impressed with the fact that they carried so many options
for plus sized women! You should go check their site out! I know she'll have some issues with the length on the tights but
the 2x size will fit her hip and waist size perfectly.
Total spent to make this costume: $74.00. USD I used my 50% off coupons, my 40% off coupons on fabric.