Fairy Costume For Petite Plus Size Woman
Here I share with you how I made a petite plus sized fairy costume for my friend.
Patterns Used: For the Corset Top: Simplicity 7009 (size16-18-20 sized up from 20 to 22), and for the skirts
(inner and outer): McCall's 4474 (size 20-22-24) *NOTE: THIS SKIRT PATTERN CONSISTENTLY RUNS TOO
LARGE ON THE WAIST, I'VE MADE THIS ONE FOUR TIMES NOW AND ALL WERE TOO BIG AT THE WAIST.*
When doing research for this costume, trying to find larger sized patterns for this design I had a hard time
finding a corset top/bustier pattern for larger sizes. The only other pattern I came across is now OOP from
Simplicity, pattern 5009 Junior Plus sizes are 23/24-31/32. This may or may not work for you. If anyone
finds or knows of more large size bustier or corset top patterns please email me at the email link on my
cinema-fantasy web page. I'd like to add more plus sized corset top patterns here! For the skirts, the pattern I
used here also comes in size 26-32W.
The Concept: This came about because of the Barbie "Fairytopia: Mermaidia" movie in which a character
named "Azura" appears. My good friend wanted to make her daughter happy by dressing like Azura from the
movie this Halloween. I think it's just an excuse for her to play ballerina fairy dress up all over again- lol!!
She knows it too! I designed a costume for her (shown in the drawing above) based on the brief moments I
watched the Fairytopia film.
Making It:
I started with Simplicity 7009 and I sized it up from a 20 to a 22. I had purchased a design curve prior to
starting the project. You should really have one of these on hand if you want to play around with patterns.
Very helpful for joining curved lines when you are sizing up a pattern. The only other change I made to the
pattern was that I took the top band pattern from view (b) and turned it into a triangle design. This was very
easy to do. I just took the pattern and traced it so that I wouldn't destroy the original one. I made it longer so
that it would fit the larger bodice I just made. Then I folded it in half. I then cut out several triangles on the
folded edge. When you open up the pattern again, it looks like a diamond pattern was cut into the center of
the band. When I cut out the fabric I opened it up, and pinned it on the fabric flat, to cut out the whole shape.
Then I folded the fabric in half and cut the triangles on the fold edge. When I sewed the band up I folded the
pieces right sides together, I began to stitch from the top left corner in a big zig-zag direction following the
triangles about 1/4" away from the cut edges, picoting at the points and continuing on to the next triangle.
See pic below for diagram. I must say, I have never worked with a foil spandex fabric before and it was a bit
like sewing on a bar of soap, slippery like nothing else. I thought velvet was bad. Not as bad as this is. I 100%
recommend using fusible interfacing on these types of fabrics! Makes a world of difference. Pin them well, and
baste for sure. For the bodice panels I used a polyester silkessence in turquoise blue. Everything I bought was
purchased with the 40-50% off coupons at the local Jo-Ann's Fabrics & Crafts store. I used a white 1/8"
rattail cording for the back laces. I used the corset lace shrink tubing on the cording to make it easier to lace.
You can get the shrink tubing at a millinery supply house, or at Farthingales. I used my heat gun to shrink
them. I noticed the heat gun WILL singe the cording like a toasted marshmallow if not careful. After the corset
was complete, I tacked down by hand each triangle.
Patterns Used: For the Corset Top: Simplicity 7009 (size16-18-20 sized up from 20 to 22), and for the skirts
(inner and outer): McCall's 4474 (size 20-22-24) *NOTE: THIS SKIRT PATTERN CONSISTENTLY RUNS TOO
LARGE ON THE WAIST, I'VE MADE THIS ONE FOUR TIMES NOW AND ALL WERE TOO BIG AT THE WAIST.*
When doing research for this costume, trying to find larger sized patterns for this design I had a hard time
finding a corset top/bustier pattern for larger sizes. The only other pattern I came across is now OOP from
Simplicity, pattern 5009 Junior Plus sizes are 23/24-31/32. This may or may not work for you. If anyone
finds or knows of more large size bustier or corset top patterns please email me at the email link on my
cinema-fantasy web page. I'd like to add more plus sized corset top patterns here! For the skirts, the pattern I
used here also comes in size 26-32W.
The Concept: This came about because of the Barbie "Fairytopia: Mermaidia" movie in which a character
named "Azura" appears. My good friend wanted to make her daughter happy by dressing like Azura from the
movie this Halloween. I think it's just an excuse for her to play ballerina fairy dress up all over again- lol!!
She knows it too! I designed a costume for her (shown in the drawing above) based on the brief moments I
watched the Fairytopia film.
Making It:
I started with Simplicity 7009 and I sized it up from a 20 to a 22. I had purchased a design curve prior to
starting the project. You should really have one of these on hand if you want to play around with patterns.
Very helpful for joining curved lines when you are sizing up a pattern. The only other change I made to the
pattern was that I took the top band pattern from view (b) and turned it into a triangle design. This was very
easy to do. I just took the pattern and traced it so that I wouldn't destroy the original one. I made it longer so
that it would fit the larger bodice I just made. Then I folded it in half. I then cut out several triangles on the
folded edge. When you open up the pattern again, it looks like a diamond pattern was cut into the center of
the band. When I cut out the fabric I opened it up, and pinned it on the fabric flat, to cut out the whole shape.
Then I folded the fabric in half and cut the triangles on the fold edge. When I sewed the band up I folded the
pieces right sides together, I began to stitch from the top left corner in a big zig-zag direction following the
triangles about 1/4" away from the cut edges, picoting at the points and continuing on to the next triangle.
See pic below for diagram. I must say, I have never worked with a foil spandex fabric before and it was a bit
like sewing on a bar of soap, slippery like nothing else. I thought velvet was bad. Not as bad as this is. I 100%
recommend using fusible interfacing on these types of fabrics! Makes a world of difference. Pin them well, and
baste for sure. For the bodice panels I used a polyester silkessence in turquoise blue. Everything I bought was
purchased with the 40-50% off coupons at the local Jo-Ann's Fabrics & Crafts store. I used a white 1/8"
rattail cording for the back laces. I used the corset lace shrink tubing on the cording to make it easier to lace.
You can get the shrink tubing at a millinery supply house, or at Farthingales. I used my heat gun to shrink
them. I noticed the heat gun WILL singe the cording like a toasted marshmallow if not careful. After the corset
was complete, I tacked down by hand each triangle.
For the skirts:
My girlfriend is all of 4' 9" tall. =0) so all the skirt pattern pieces were cut on the "petite" lines.
I used McCall's 4474, I was comfortable using the pattern because I used this pattern for the Gypsy Peasant
costume I made. This time I made the outer skirts like flower petals. I made the outer skirt out of polyester
Organza or Costal Crepon Sheer from Jo-Ann's in a light baby blue color. I traced off the skirt pattern so that I
would not damage the original. Then I cut away a large curve on each skirt panel piece at the hem (see pic
below). Using the design curve here again really helped. I took each skirt piece and ran it through my serger
on a narrow rolled hem. I did the rolled hem from the top left corner all the way around the curved hem and
up the right side. Hemming the entire piece. I decided to sew the panels together from the waist to the knee,
and leave the panels open from the knee to the hem. Giving it a petal like flow when she walks. I was forced to
re-think the waist band and back elastic on this one. The original instructions use a front waistband, and a
back elastic. You cannot expect this type of fabric to stretch. PERIOD. It will not. So there was not enough give
in the back and side back pieces to work the necessary length of elastic into the casing, therefore it came out
too small on the hip and waist the first time I made it because I wasn't paying enough attention to what was
happening. =0( Ultimately, I decided to serge the pieces together. I left one of the side seams open 3-4 inches
from the waist. I made a casing all the way around the waist instead of what the pattern called for, and I left
one of the side seams open about 3-4 inches to allow for the white 1/8" rattail cording to come through the
casing. Now it is worn as an apron. Tie at the side or back. I put the shrink tubing on the rattail again.
The fabric I used disintegrates easily, very crisp, very fine. I recommend using a serger to do the seams and
hemming this type of material with special hems like a rolled hem. I also recommend that you not use this
type of material on an item which will take repeated stress--and I know that I just did that by making this
skirt! LOL! But I'm telling you, the fabric just can't take seam stress and will pull apart on you easily if you do
not 1.)French seam it, 2.) or serge it, or 3.)something like that. I learned allot from playing with this fabric. I
had never used it before. This outer skirt went through 4 total rebuilds before it was finished. Mostly due to
error on my part. But there it stands! =0)) I was determined to make this skirt happen! I wasn't giving up. And
BOY did it school me..slapped my wrists something hard! LOL!
My girlfriend is all of 4' 9" tall. =0) so all the skirt pattern pieces were cut on the "petite" lines.
I used McCall's 4474, I was comfortable using the pattern because I used this pattern for the Gypsy Peasant
costume I made. This time I made the outer skirts like flower petals. I made the outer skirt out of polyester
Organza or Costal Crepon Sheer from Jo-Ann's in a light baby blue color. I traced off the skirt pattern so that I
would not damage the original. Then I cut away a large curve on each skirt panel piece at the hem (see pic
below). Using the design curve here again really helped. I took each skirt piece and ran it through my serger
on a narrow rolled hem. I did the rolled hem from the top left corner all the way around the curved hem and
up the right side. Hemming the entire piece. I decided to sew the panels together from the waist to the knee,
and leave the panels open from the knee to the hem. Giving it a petal like flow when she walks. I was forced to
re-think the waist band and back elastic on this one. The original instructions use a front waistband, and a
back elastic. You cannot expect this type of fabric to stretch. PERIOD. It will not. So there was not enough give
in the back and side back pieces to work the necessary length of elastic into the casing, therefore it came out
too small on the hip and waist the first time I made it because I wasn't paying enough attention to what was
happening. =0( Ultimately, I decided to serge the pieces together. I left one of the side seams open 3-4 inches
from the waist. I made a casing all the way around the waist instead of what the pattern called for, and I left
one of the side seams open about 3-4 inches to allow for the white 1/8" rattail cording to come through the
casing. Now it is worn as an apron. Tie at the side or back. I put the shrink tubing on the rattail again.
The fabric I used disintegrates easily, very crisp, very fine. I recommend using a serger to do the seams and
hemming this type of material with special hems like a rolled hem. I also recommend that you not use this
type of material on an item which will take repeated stress--and I know that I just did that by making this
skirt! LOL! But I'm telling you, the fabric just can't take seam stress and will pull apart on you easily if you do
not 1.)French seam it, 2.) or serge it, or 3.)something like that. I learned allot from playing with this fabric. I
had never used it before. This outer skirt went through 4 total rebuilds before it was finished. Mostly due to
error on my part. But there it stands! =0)) I was determined to make this skirt happen! I wasn't giving up. And
BOY did it school me..slapped my wrists something hard! LOL!
The Inner Skirt:
I made the inner skirt out of the same polyester fashion fabric that I made the corset top out of. I made the
inner skirt exactly as the pattern dictated for view (b) I think without any real alteration other than for
petite scale. See pics of the finished under skirt below. You'll notice that the panel seams have a slightly
gathered appearance to them. This is what happens when your serger thread tension is too tight for the fabric
you're using and you don't realize it until you're done. =0( At least you will not see it with the over skirt on.
I made the inner skirt out of the same polyester fashion fabric that I made the corset top out of. I made the
inner skirt exactly as the pattern dictated for view (b) I think without any real alteration other than for
petite scale. See pics of the finished under skirt below. You'll notice that the panel seams have a slightly
gathered appearance to them. This is what happens when your serger thread tension is too tight for the fabric
you're using and you don't realize it until you're done. =0( At least you will not see it with the over skirt on.
| Altered Band Pattern for View B |
| The Corset Top Nearly Finished |
| Altered Pattern |
| Serged with Rolled Hem |
| Finished it! |
I want to also recommend a nifty little device called the "Bob n' Serge". You can buy one here: Clotilde. The
Bob n' Serge is great! I load up three or four sewing machine bobbins with the color of thread I am using,
winding the bobbins on my sewing machine. Then I load the bobbins into the little plastic box. You then place
the box onto one of the serger thread spool pins and then thread your machine. Why I think it is so great is
the fact that I do not have the space to store all those huge thread cones, I already have a "wall o' thread" in
every color imaginable..I really did not like the idea that I needed another "wall-o-thread" made out of
thread cones. I do many small projects with the doll costuming I do, and I was looking for a way to be able to
serge small projects without having to buy bulk thread (not counting white or black- those I buy in cones).
Totally cool to me. The only drawback I see is that when the thread spools run out, you have to re-thread
your machine after you've filled it back up. The thread spools for bobbins do not hold very much. I got
through serging all 6 panels with a fine rolled hem and when I looked down, one of the spools was empty. You
might encounter mulitple re-threads and re-fills in the process if you're doing something bigger than doll
clothing or short small projects- therefore the cones are better for you. If you're going to be using the
Bob-n-Serge, buy extra thread spools. I can't count how many times I didn't buy enough thread and when I
went back for more my color was gone.
Accessories:
The final accessories were purchased:
Adult fairy wings $10.99 at Buy Costumes.
Turquoise Blue Plus Sized Tights $9.00 at We Love Colors
We Love Colors was GREAT! Tights came really fast, and I was impressed with the fact that they carried so
many options for plus sized women! You should go check their site out! I know she'll have some issues with
the length on the tights but the 2x size will fit her hip and waist size perfectly.
Total spent to make this costume: $74.00. USD I used my 50% off coupons, my 40% off coupons on fabric.
Bob n' Serge is great! I load up three or four sewing machine bobbins with the color of thread I am using,
winding the bobbins on my sewing machine. Then I load the bobbins into the little plastic box. You then place
the box onto one of the serger thread spool pins and then thread your machine. Why I think it is so great is
the fact that I do not have the space to store all those huge thread cones, I already have a "wall o' thread" in
every color imaginable..I really did not like the idea that I needed another "wall-o-thread" made out of
thread cones. I do many small projects with the doll costuming I do, and I was looking for a way to be able to
serge small projects without having to buy bulk thread (not counting white or black- those I buy in cones).
Totally cool to me. The only drawback I see is that when the thread spools run out, you have to re-thread
your machine after you've filled it back up. The thread spools for bobbins do not hold very much. I got
through serging all 6 panels with a fine rolled hem and when I looked down, one of the spools was empty. You
might encounter mulitple re-threads and re-fills in the process if you're doing something bigger than doll
clothing or short small projects- therefore the cones are better for you. If you're going to be using the
Bob-n-Serge, buy extra thread spools. I can't count how many times I didn't buy enough thread and when I
went back for more my color was gone.
Accessories:
The final accessories were purchased:
Adult fairy wings $10.99 at Buy Costumes.
Turquoise Blue Plus Sized Tights $9.00 at We Love Colors
We Love Colors was GREAT! Tights came really fast, and I was impressed with the fact that they carried so
many options for plus sized women! You should go check their site out! I know she'll have some issues with
the length on the tights but the 2x size will fit her hip and waist size perfectly.
Total spent to make this costume: $74.00. USD I used my 50% off coupons, my 40% off coupons on fabric.