| Making Hand Sewn Eyelets Try it! (It's Easier Than You Think) |
1.)Gather the items you will need to make them. I used a pencil or sewing
marker to mark the spots for the holes, embroidery needles, embroidery floss, the
pattern for the eyelets, thread scissors or snips and an awl.
I have been told many times over the years that punching a hole through layers
of fabric directly with a hole punch for leather will weaken the hole. And that
the only way to make a secure hole in fabric and maintain the integrity of the
fabric around to keep the eyelet in place be it a hand sewn one or a metal
grommet or eyelet is to gently push a hole through all layers with an awl. I have
done both hole punch and awl methods. I haven't actually noticed a difference in
the finished strength of the hole between the two when used on doll scale
applications. But then again, I have not as of this date completed a human scale
corset or stays. I've only made them for a doll. I honestly believe that an awl
would be best to use for human corsetry applications because those eyelets are
under allot of stress and body sweat. You'll need all the strength you can get.
You decide and you discover what works best for you and whatever method you
choose is up to you! =0) Here we go..
marker to mark the spots for the holes, embroidery needles, embroidery floss, the
pattern for the eyelets, thread scissors or snips and an awl.
I have been told many times over the years that punching a hole through layers
of fabric directly with a hole punch for leather will weaken the hole. And that
the only way to make a secure hole in fabric and maintain the integrity of the
fabric around to keep the eyelet in place be it a hand sewn one or a metal
grommet or eyelet is to gently push a hole through all layers with an awl. I have
done both hole punch and awl methods. I haven't actually noticed a difference in
the finished strength of the hole between the two when used on doll scale
applications. But then again, I have not as of this date completed a human scale
corset or stays. I've only made them for a doll. I honestly believe that an awl
would be best to use for human corsetry applications because those eyelets are
under allot of stress and body sweat. You'll need all the strength you can get.
You decide and you discover what works best for you and whatever method you
choose is up to you! =0) Here we go..
2.)Design your pattern. If you want spiral laced stays which are more
historically correct for the 18th century then you can check the pattern to the
left which is what I used for my 18th century stays for a doll. But if you want
19th century and beyond corset or garment lacing then do not use that style
shown in my pattern. I took my finished stays and placed the tracing fabric on
top of the stays I traced the left and right back portions only. I wanted to
make sure that I avoided bones and the binding and wanted to make sure that
I was far enough away from the edge of the sides and the top and the bottom.
Making a tracing of your finished stays is the way to do that. Then decide how
you want the lacing to look. I charted the diagonal lacing on the pattern and
then drew in lines representing the laces as if it were laced up fully closed to
make sure that my holes were in the right spots. Then I cut that pattern down
the center so that I would have a portion for the left and for the right to work
with. Then mark your fabric in the correct places from your pattern. Begin to
pierce the hole with the tip of your awl or punch your hole with your hole
punch. I worked on one eyelet at a time pushing the hole through right before
I sewed it over so that it would not have time to close on me. If you make all
the holes at once and then begin to sew them over some of them may need to
be reopened before you can sew them.
historically correct for the 18th century then you can check the pattern to the
left which is what I used for my 18th century stays for a doll. But if you want
19th century and beyond corset or garment lacing then do not use that style
shown in my pattern. I took my finished stays and placed the tracing fabric on
top of the stays I traced the left and right back portions only. I wanted to
make sure that I avoided bones and the binding and wanted to make sure that
I was far enough away from the edge of the sides and the top and the bottom.
Making a tracing of your finished stays is the way to do that. Then decide how
you want the lacing to look. I charted the diagonal lacing on the pattern and
then drew in lines representing the laces as if it were laced up fully closed to
make sure that my holes were in the right spots. Then I cut that pattern down
the center so that I would have a portion for the left and for the right to work
with. Then mark your fabric in the correct places from your pattern. Begin to
pierce the hole with the tip of your awl or punch your hole with your hole
punch. I worked on one eyelet at a time pushing the hole through right before
I sewed it over so that it would not have time to close on me. If you make all
the holes at once and then begin to sew them over some of them may need to
be reopened before you can sew them.
3.)Sewing over the eyelets. Before I begin let me state that these photos were
taken of the very first time I had ever made hand sewn eyelets so yes, they are
sloppy, messy and uneven. Try not to focus on what mine look like and just
follow the method. As time goes on, you and I will both get better at sewing
them. Someday they will look awesome! Keep practicing! ;0) What I like most
about hand sewn eyelets is, because of the myriad of colors available in threads;
embroidery thread, linen thread, upholstery thread, whatever you are using-
you can find a coordinating color for your project, unlike metal eyelets or
grommets which do not often come in many colors unless you are doing
something with the 1/8" size eyelets created for scrap booking and commonly
used in doll scale items. So the possibility to blend your eyelet into the project
rather than have it stand out is very nice.
There is the eyelet hole (top left). Begin by threading your needle with 2 or 3
strands of embroidery floss if that is what you are using. If you try using all the
strands your eyelet will be very sloppy. 2 seemed to be the best for me. DON'T
knot the end of the thread. Because if you make two knots (one for the
beginning and one for the end) it makes it rather bumpy. If you feel more
secure about knotting it, do it. But here is what I did instead of knotting the
beginning:
Begin the eyelet by pushing the threaded needle through to the back side of
your project (a). Pull the thread until you have a tail of about an inch long left
(b). Hold onto that tail with your thumb. (c) Put the needle through the
opening of the eyelet and push it through the exact same spot again holding
onto the tail. (d) Now sew over the thread tail while you are beginning to go
around the hole with at least 4-5 passes. Cut the tail off. (e)
Finish sewing all the way around the eyelet. *The needle passes through the
fabric on the front very near to the hole, then comes back towards you through
the opening of the hole, and then back through the fabric very near to the hole
over and over, wrapping the raw edge of the opening with thread as you sew.* (f)
taken of the very first time I had ever made hand sewn eyelets so yes, they are
sloppy, messy and uneven. Try not to focus on what mine look like and just
follow the method. As time goes on, you and I will both get better at sewing
them. Someday they will look awesome! Keep practicing! ;0) What I like most
about hand sewn eyelets is, because of the myriad of colors available in threads;
embroidery thread, linen thread, upholstery thread, whatever you are using-
you can find a coordinating color for your project, unlike metal eyelets or
grommets which do not often come in many colors unless you are doing
something with the 1/8" size eyelets created for scrap booking and commonly
used in doll scale items. So the possibility to blend your eyelet into the project
rather than have it stand out is very nice.
There is the eyelet hole (top left). Begin by threading your needle with 2 or 3
strands of embroidery floss if that is what you are using. If you try using all the
strands your eyelet will be very sloppy. 2 seemed to be the best for me. DON'T
knot the end of the thread. Because if you make two knots (one for the
beginning and one for the end) it makes it rather bumpy. If you feel more
secure about knotting it, do it. But here is what I did instead of knotting the
beginning:
Begin the eyelet by pushing the threaded needle through to the back side of
your project (a). Pull the thread until you have a tail of about an inch long left
(b). Hold onto that tail with your thumb. (c) Put the needle through the
opening of the eyelet and push it through the exact same spot again holding
onto the tail. (d) Now sew over the thread tail while you are beginning to go
around the hole with at least 4-5 passes. Cut the tail off. (e)
Finish sewing all the way around the eyelet. *The needle passes through the
fabric on the front very near to the hole, then comes back towards you through
the opening of the hole, and then back through the fabric very near to the hole
over and over, wrapping the raw edge of the opening with thread as you sew.* (f)
A
B
C
B
C
4.)To finish the eyelet. You can just knot it in the back and call it a day if you
want. But here is what I did: First I passed the needle through a couple threads
being careful not to stretch the threads out and distort my eyelet stitches in
the process. (g) Then I tied a knot. (h) Then I passed the needle under the
eyelet stitched again to bury the knot under the stitches again being careful
not to distort the stitches by pulling too hard. (i) Then I cut the thread. (j)
After I cut the thread I added a tiny drop of liquid fray block such as fray check
or fray block. (k) Do this only if you are sure the liquid won't stain your fabrics
by testing it on a scrap FIRST. =0) The very last thing that I did was push my
awl into the opening a couple times after the fray block dried to make sure the
hole did not collapse during sewing, to make sure the hole was even. (L) And
that's it! Now, go make more.
want. But here is what I did: First I passed the needle through a couple threads
being careful not to stretch the threads out and distort my eyelet stitches in
the process. (g) Then I tied a knot. (h) Then I passed the needle under the
eyelet stitched again to bury the knot under the stitches again being careful
not to distort the stitches by pulling too hard. (i) Then I cut the thread. (j)
After I cut the thread I added a tiny drop of liquid fray block such as fray check
or fray block. (k) Do this only if you are sure the liquid won't stain your fabrics
by testing it on a scrap FIRST. =0) The very last thing that I did was push my
awl into the opening a couple times after the fray block dried to make sure the
hole did not collapse during sewing, to make sure the hole was even. (L) And
that's it! Now, go make more.
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The finished stays. The stays laced.
* If you would like to see a web page on how to lace 18th century stays, go
here. *
* If you would like to see a web page on how to lace 18th century stays, go
here. *
| HOME Sources For Buying: Awls for large grommets: Tandy Leather Awl for small or tiny 1/16th eyelets: Clotilde I also used a doll needle as an awl for the teeny 1/16th eyelets. Marking pencils, tracing paper, thread snips, embroidery floss, embroidery needle, fray block: Usually found at your local fabric store like Hancock's or Jo-Ann's. Or online at Home-Sew. |
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