| Making Hand Sewn Eyelets Try it! (It's Easier Than You Think) |
1.)Gather the items you will need to make them. I used a pencil or sewing
marker to mark the spots for the holes, embroidery needles, embroidery
floss, the pattern for the eyelets, thread scissors or snips and an awl.
I have been told many times over the years that punching a hole through
layers of fabric directly with a hole punch for leather will weaken the hole.
And that the only way to make a secure hole in fabric and maintain the
integrity of the fabric around to keep the eyelet in place be it a hand sewn
one or a metal grommet or eyelet is to gently push a hole through all
layers with an awl. I have done both hole punch and awl methods. I
haven't actually noticed a difference in the finished strength of the hole
between the two when used on doll scale applications. But then again, I
have not as of this date completed a human scale corset or stays. I've
only made them for a doll. I honestly believe that an awl would be best to
use for human corsetry applications because those eyelets are under allot
of stress and body sweat. You'll need all the strength you can get.
You decide and you discover what works best for you and whatever
method you choose is up to you! =0) Here we go..
marker to mark the spots for the holes, embroidery needles, embroidery
floss, the pattern for the eyelets, thread scissors or snips and an awl.
I have been told many times over the years that punching a hole through
layers of fabric directly with a hole punch for leather will weaken the hole.
And that the only way to make a secure hole in fabric and maintain the
integrity of the fabric around to keep the eyelet in place be it a hand sewn
one or a metal grommet or eyelet is to gently push a hole through all
layers with an awl. I have done both hole punch and awl methods. I
haven't actually noticed a difference in the finished strength of the hole
between the two when used on doll scale applications. But then again, I
have not as of this date completed a human scale corset or stays. I've
only made them for a doll. I honestly believe that an awl would be best to
use for human corsetry applications because those eyelets are under allot
of stress and body sweat. You'll need all the strength you can get.
You decide and you discover what works best for you and whatever
method you choose is up to you! =0) Here we go..
2.)Design your pattern. If you want spiral laced stays which are more
historically correct for the 18th century then you can check the pattern to
the left which is what I used for my 18th century stays for a doll. But if
you want 19th century and beyond corset or garment lacing then do not
use that style shown in my pattern. I took my finished stays and placed
the tracing fabric on top of the stays I traced the left and right back
portions only. I wanted to make sure that I avoided bones and the
binding and wanted to make sure that I was far enough away from the
edge of the sides and the top and the bottom. Making a tracing of your
finished stays is the way to do that. Then decide how you want the lacing
to look. I charted the diagonal lacing on the pattern and then drew in lines
representing the laces as if it were laced up fully closed to make sure that
my holes were in the right spots. Then I cut that pattern down the center
so that I would have a portion for the left and for the right to work with.
Then mark your fabric in the correct places from your pattern. Begin to
pierce the hole with the tip of your awl or punch your hole with your hole
punch. I worked on one eyelet at a time pushing the hole through right
before I sewed it over so that it would not have time to close on me. If
you make all the holes at once and then begin to sew them over some of
them may need to be reopened before you can sew them.
historically correct for the 18th century then you can check the pattern to
the left which is what I used for my 18th century stays for a doll. But if
you want 19th century and beyond corset or garment lacing then do not
use that style shown in my pattern. I took my finished stays and placed
the tracing fabric on top of the stays I traced the left and right back
portions only. I wanted to make sure that I avoided bones and the
binding and wanted to make sure that I was far enough away from the
edge of the sides and the top and the bottom. Making a tracing of your
finished stays is the way to do that. Then decide how you want the lacing
to look. I charted the diagonal lacing on the pattern and then drew in lines
representing the laces as if it were laced up fully closed to make sure that
my holes were in the right spots. Then I cut that pattern down the center
so that I would have a portion for the left and for the right to work with.
Then mark your fabric in the correct places from your pattern. Begin to
pierce the hole with the tip of your awl or punch your hole with your hole
punch. I worked on one eyelet at a time pushing the hole through right
before I sewed it over so that it would not have time to close on me. If
you make all the holes at once and then begin to sew them over some of
them may need to be reopened before you can sew them.
3.)Sewing over the eyelets. Before I begin let me state that these
photos were taken of the very first time I had ever made hand sewn
eyelets so yes, they are sloppy, messy and uneven. Try not to focus on
what mine look like and just follow the method. As time goes on, you
and I will both get better at sewing them. Someday they will look
awesome! Keep practicing! ;0) What I like most about hand sewn eyelets
is, because of the myriad of colors available in threads; embroidery
thread, linen thread, upholstery thread, whatever you are using- you can
find a coordinating color for your project, unlike metal eyelets or
grommets which do not often come in many colors unless you are doing
something with the 1/8" size eyelets created for scrap booking and
commonly used in doll scale items. So the possibility to blend your eyelet
into the project rather than have it stand out is very nice.
There is the eyelet hole (top left). Begin by threading your needle with 2
or 3 strands of embroidery floss if that is what you are using. If you try
using all the strands your eyelet will be very sloppy. 2 seemed to be the
best for me. DON'T knot the end of the thread. Because if you make two
knots (one for the beginning and one for the end) it makes it rather
bumpy. If you feel more secure about knotting it, do it. But here is what
I did instead of knotting the beginning:
Begin the eyelet by pushing the threaded needle through to the back
side of your project (a). Pull the thread until you have a tail of about an
inch long left (b). Hold onto that tail with your thumb. (c) Put the needle
through the opening of the eyelet and push it through the exact same
spot again holding onto the tail. (d) Now sew over the thread tail while
you are beginning to go around the hole with at least 4-5 passes. Cut
the tail off. (e)
Finish sewing all the way around the eyelet. *The needle passes through
the fabric on the front very near to the hole, then comes back towards
you through the opening of the hole, and then back through the fabric
very near to the hole over and over, wrapping the raw edge of the
opening with thread as you sew.* (f)
photos were taken of the very first time I had ever made hand sewn
eyelets so yes, they are sloppy, messy and uneven. Try not to focus on
what mine look like and just follow the method. As time goes on, you
and I will both get better at sewing them. Someday they will look
awesome! Keep practicing! ;0) What I like most about hand sewn eyelets
is, because of the myriad of colors available in threads; embroidery
thread, linen thread, upholstery thread, whatever you are using- you can
find a coordinating color for your project, unlike metal eyelets or
grommets which do not often come in many colors unless you are doing
something with the 1/8" size eyelets created for scrap booking and
commonly used in doll scale items. So the possibility to blend your eyelet
into the project rather than have it stand out is very nice.
There is the eyelet hole (top left). Begin by threading your needle with 2
or 3 strands of embroidery floss if that is what you are using. If you try
using all the strands your eyelet will be very sloppy. 2 seemed to be the
best for me. DON'T knot the end of the thread. Because if you make two
knots (one for the beginning and one for the end) it makes it rather
bumpy. If you feel more secure about knotting it, do it. But here is what
I did instead of knotting the beginning:
Begin the eyelet by pushing the threaded needle through to the back
side of your project (a). Pull the thread until you have a tail of about an
inch long left (b). Hold onto that tail with your thumb. (c) Put the needle
through the opening of the eyelet and push it through the exact same
spot again holding onto the tail. (d) Now sew over the thread tail while
you are beginning to go around the hole with at least 4-5 passes. Cut
the tail off. (e)
Finish sewing all the way around the eyelet. *The needle passes through
the fabric on the front very near to the hole, then comes back towards
you through the opening of the hole, and then back through the fabric
very near to the hole over and over, wrapping the raw edge of the
opening with thread as you sew.* (f)
A
B
C
B
C
4.)To finish the eyelet. You can just knot it in the back and call it a day
if you want. But here is what I did: First I passed the needle through a
couple threads being careful not to stretch the threads out and distort
my eyelet stitches in the process. (g) Then I tied a knot. (h) Then I
passed the needle under the eyelet stitched again to bury the knot
under the stitches again being careful not to distort the stitches by
pulling too hard. (i) Then I cut the thread. (j) After I cut the thread I
added a tiny drop of liquid fray block such as fray check or fray block.
(k) Do this only if you are sure the liquid won't stain your fabrics by
testing it on a scrap FIRST. =0) The very last thing that I did was push
my awl into the opening a couple times after the fray block dried to
make sure the hole did not collapse during sewing, to make sure the
hole was even. (L) And that's it! Now, go make more.
if you want. But here is what I did: First I passed the needle through a
couple threads being careful not to stretch the threads out and distort
my eyelet stitches in the process. (g) Then I tied a knot. (h) Then I
passed the needle under the eyelet stitched again to bury the knot
under the stitches again being careful not to distort the stitches by
pulling too hard. (i) Then I cut the thread. (j) After I cut the thread I
added a tiny drop of liquid fray block such as fray check or fray block.
(k) Do this only if you are sure the liquid won't stain your fabrics by
testing it on a scrap FIRST. =0) The very last thing that I did was push
my awl into the opening a couple times after the fray block dried to
make sure the hole did not collapse during sewing, to make sure the
hole was even. (L) And that's it! Now, go make more.
G
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The finished stays. The stays laced.
* If you would like to see a web page
on how to lace 18th century stays, go here. *
* If you would like to see a web page
on how to lace 18th century stays, go here. *
| HOME Sources For Buying: Awls for large grommets: Tandy Leather Awl for small or tiny 1/16th eyelets: Clotilde I also used a doll needle as an awl for the teeny 1/16th eyelets. Marking pencils, tracing paper, thread snips, embroidery floss, embroidery needle, fray block: Usually found at your local fabric store like Hancock's or Jo-Ann's. Or online at Home-Sew. |
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